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Originally posted by F-TECH: Sounds like a loss of main power to your key systems?
Try to tap on/around battery fuse box & also look for spread fuse terminals in inside fuse box where someone may have piggy-backed an accessory at some previous time.
Check tightness where positive (+) battery cable attaches to underhood fuse box.
Also, next time you drive down road, notice what makes/models of cars broken down on the side of the road...;-)
Last but not least...I heard Ford backwards is Driver Returns On Foot... The battery positive terminal is tight for sure, I still have the power options, interior lights, flashers, and brake lights. The fuse terminals should also be good since Ford just replaced all the wiring harnesses 5 days before the mishap... I'm not so sure about piggy-back system though. I know the previous owner did some ghetto audio wiring and caused some problem with the stereo before.
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Originally posted by horseydug: While you're waiting for response; it would appear that f9 20amp matches the description, identified as PCM in the fuse tabulation. This fuse is feed to contact of PCM relay which in turn feeds vital engine functions (eg fuel injectors) It's not just that the car won't start though, it has absolutely no power. It's like the Aux Fuse box is not connected or something (because the Aux Fuse box houses all the engine fuses).
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Chances are the Ford "technicians" screwed it up. Ford refuses to hire good mechanics or allow enough to time for warranty and recall repairs. Ford customer service is the worst.
"Wow, that sank fast." "Yeah, like a rock." 96 Contour GL ATX 9mm Ford Racing Wires; 2 Resonators down, 1 to go;"Special airbox"; many mods planned Sony CD player: 50wattsx4;remote; Speakers=50 watt Pioneer 6x8s Ross Evans
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Sorry, I don't venture into 'Problems' too often. Yes, when I had my problem I still had certain things powered. I still had brake lamps, for example, but no hazards. No headlamps, and nothing on the column. The stereo didn't work, but the dome lights did. PM me if you need anything else. I recieve notifications in my email so I will know you need me back. 
· Jon Miconi
· 96 Contour Zetec ATX · 80 Ramcharger 360 ATX · 77 Ramcharger 440 ATX
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Originally posted by AirKnight: ExDelayed, can you tell me which fuse that was? Better yet, I can show you. See those two baby blue fuses on the right hand side? IIRC, it is the one closest to the airbox.
· Jon Miconi
· 96 Contour Zetec ATX · 80 Ramcharger 360 ATX · 77 Ramcharger 440 ATX
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That would be f10 20amp Ignition switch fuse he's referring to, which incidentaly feeds the PCM relay coil. So it would knock out everything that f9 does, plus more, resulting in a pretty dead car (electrically speaking).
If fuses are OK good chance you're into loose wiring connection(s) at the main distribution box; considering the major harness replacement you've had that is distinct possibility.
Not the area to poke around in without disconnecting battery.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km 97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km stock CD on LS, cass on LX spoiler, tinted windows on LS only 4 wheel discs on LX only All other available options on both
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I pulled my fuse without disconnecting the battery. I made sure everything possible inside the car was turned off though, to avoid any possible power spikes.
Couldn't have been much worse then me hotwiring it so I could drive it. :rolleyes:
· Jon Miconi
· 96 Contour Zetec ATX · 80 Ramcharger 360 ATX · 77 Ramcharger 440 ATX
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well from what you are describing is sounds like everything that is powered by the accessory buss failed. Everything that is wired battery direct still works.
Most likely its the ignition switch, the fuse for the circut that actuates the relay that turns the accessory power on and off, or the relay its self.
Get a wiring diagram of the accesssory power circut and check the fuse first. If the fuse is good, turn the ignition key to the on position and check for voltage to the relay exciter terminal. If theres no voltage there and the fuse is good move on and check the ignition switch.
If there is voltage to the relay exciter terminal then ckeck for voltage on the terminal of the relay that is connected to the battery. If there is voltage there, and there is voltage to the relay's exciter terminal then the relay is toasted.
"careful man, there's a beverage here." e-mail: boseraq@hotmail.com aol IM: madhat1412
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Got my car back from Ford. It's the F10 20A ignition fuse. The service advisor left so I didn't get a chance to ask him what caused the problem. I might change my mind about getting another car now since the fuse was the only problem.
ExDelayed, did you have that problem again since you replaced the fuse?
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Nope. The problem has never surfaced again. 
· Jon Miconi
· 96 Contour Zetec ATX · 80 Ramcharger 360 ATX · 77 Ramcharger 440 ATX
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