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Joined: Jan 2003
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Well I'm looking into maybe changing the water pump on the SVT since its the factory one with 72,000 miles on it. At BAT they have that electric one that they say give like from 7-10HP gains. How much of this is actually believable(sp?) and does anyone have this or know about them. Thanks
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Joined: Sep 2000
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I dont think anybody actually has any pre/post dyno plots with the electric waterpump. But it will free up some hp since its not driven off the camshaft.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
I dont think anybody actually has any pre/post dyno plots with the electric waterpump. But it will free up some hp since its not driven off the camshaft.
I could see that... like some people disconecting their AC to get horse..
Black 98.5 SVT
"Kellie"
First rule of italian driving: What is behind you, DOESN'T matter
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 68
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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If its not on the belt then it is just going to be getting its power from the alternator......
Canada = little France
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Originally posted by Kevdogg410:
I could see that... like some people disconecting their AC to get horse..
Not really.
The A/C unit does not take any power to spin since the bearing in the clutch free wheels when the A/C is not used.
It's an old myth.
People should only drop the A/C unit to save weight. It does not effect power output in a significant way.
The waterpump is constantly driven by the intake camshaft. CAMSHAFT! There is a significant parasitic drag placed on the valvetrain to run the waterpump. Especially as the rpm level increases.
This effect would be very pronounced on our fast revving, high rpm engine!
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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my question about that is the high price of the unit for only 2000 hours of life.
Black 98.5 SVT
"Kellie"
First rule of italian driving: What is behind you, DOESN'T matter
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if you drove your car 2 hours a day (assuming 1 hour commute each way), that would still last you 1000 days. Given a normal work year is about 50 weeks, and you work 5 days a week, you spend about 500 hours in that car a year. So it should last you about 4 years. That's a HUGE overestimate, but still, I think if you take that price and divide by 4 years, you'll see it's pretty reasonable. I dunno. . .
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think about the average life of your waterpump... and with the time I spend in my car... I don't know if I would pay 300 dollars just to turn around and pay 200 more in 2 or 3 years
Black 98.5 SVT
"Kellie"
First rule of italian driving: What is behind you, DOESN'T matter
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Cool Toe Chris
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Cool Toe Chris
Joined: May 2000
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Its 2000 hours when the pump is actually on. The pump isn't really on much. Its so efficient, that little spurts keeps the motor nice and cool. I have seen a dramatic increase in mileage (+4mpg) once the pump and controller was installed. The only downside to the pump is you have very little heat in the winter. Since it rarely runs, the heater core doesn't get much flowing coolant. But, put a manual override switch in and you're all good. I had asked my installer to do that, and its a great feature. Or, you can get an auxiliary pump inline with the heater circuit to get you some heat. I just use my heated seats to keep myself and my g/f warm! 
Chris
NJ
98.5 SVT Silver Frost
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Originally posted by Kevdogg410:
my question about that is the high price of the unit for only 2000 hours of life.
Average car speed of 30mph (low average for some  ) = 60k miles on the waterpump. That's with constant use too (figure add 30-50% since it runs maybe half the time and I doubt ever at full bore)
How is that different then the pump we already have???  Worse considering it doesn't run all the time!
Well accept the fact the electric one will let you know it's going out. 
Oh wait. I also get 5 HP for that extra $250 vs a regular pump... Maybe more???
Faster engine revving, less drag on the valvetrain on an engine that sings to 7000rpm. Maybe more???
Also the unit is rebuildable.
The only real drawback. Installation and setup!
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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