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Originally posted by Swazo:
....
They still don't turn on with the AC on or if the car heats up! How likely is it that BOTH relays burned out? Should both fans kick on with the AC on, or just one?


Ah, the real cool dude returns. Must have missed your initial post this time around.
Sounds to me that you might have had a short under battery/fuse box that burned itself clear and you now have an open circuit.

Forgot your vehicle info but fans are usually both off, both on low or both on high for v6. Resistor mentioned is in circuit from lo-speed relay to motors for lo-speed, direct feed from hi-speed relay to fan motors for hi-speed.

Suggest you remove battery (remove neg cable 1st) and do a thorough inspection from under fuse block to fan wiring harness.

Your prior problems:

hardwood

Easy search, I remembered your business.

I'll review that thread later to see if any old posts re testing apply here. ((Done, none relevant)

p.s. Worked out ok for you this time but you should not use an unfused wire from battery for probing faults. If you do find one, things could go poof!


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instead of replacing the parts, why not just test to see if you are getting electricity at the suspected part... if you getting electricity before the resistor then the resistor is bad..... if not then the resistor is probably good.. back up to the relay, see if you get electricity from the relay, and then before the relay...

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If you post your year and engine, I can look up the circuit and give you a few quick diagnostic checks.

There are circuit variations depending on the year and engine. Information given for one year's model may or may not apply to what you have.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I have a '98 SVT.

I also just got done checking the wiring by the battery and the fuse box, all of which is in good shape. I dug into the wire loom all the way to the fan harness and it was all fine. Now that it's all put back the way I found it...

(Actually better, there were a bunch of wires that were sandwiched between the battery and the tray. So I took out the tray and ran the wires underneath so nothing will get pinched off)

... I guess I'll have to shell out some cash for an electrical tester and get to testing before and after the relays to see what's getting juice. I'll do some homework on the Ford Service CD to make sure I don't cook anything.




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Investment in cheap digital voltmeter (multimeter) better value IMO than the 2 wire automotive tester light, since you get actual volts and can use it to measure resistance. I recently bought one for under $10 US to replace my 25 yr old Radio Shack analogue multimeter (neighbor borrowed and made fatal error (for meter) after checking fuses, of measuring house volts with meter still set for ohms, poof).

Suggest you examine hi-speed fan circuit first since that can be commanded on by turning on a/c.
Engine on, have someone turn on a/c while touching the hi-speed relay to see if it's coil energizes.
If ok then with ignition off pull relay.
Engine on, a/c on, measure volts to ground on relay socket terminal 3.
If volts ok then ignition off, insert relay and separate 2 wire connector at top of fan shroud.
Engine on, a/c on, measure volts on GN/BL wire-from-fuse-panel's pin.

That should get you started.


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Swazo Offline OP
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I'll swing by Pep Boys and pick one up. Thanks!

-Daymon


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Well it turned out to be a piched off wire, and thanks to the $15 multi tester......I found and repaired it. Thanks for the help guys!


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Glad you found problem, meter has now paid for itself.
Posting more specific details (location, color) would be helpful for future reference of members.

TIA.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km 97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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