Nope, it's pretty easy taking out the cluster.
Just pop off the clock with a screwdriver and the other surrouding trim pieces and unscrew the 3 screws you uncover.
Then look right above the cluster, and there's 2 more screws holding the main dash panel in place. Getting those out (and back in) was, for me, the most difficult part by far. They're way up embedded in the panel and impossible to see. A small phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience will get them out.
Lower the steering column and slide out the panel. You'll then see the cluster all by itself in the dash held in place by 5 screws -- 3 in the bottom, 2 in the top. Unscrew those.
Slide out the cluster, reach behind it and unplug the two plugs in the back, then pull it all the way out. You then have full access to all the bulbs.
Total time, maybe 15 minutes. You could take it out, replace the bulbs, test them, and replace the panel inside your lunch break, easy.
And you only need 2 tools. A small Phillips-head for all the screws and a flat-head screwdriver to pop off the trim pieces and aid in unplugging the plugs behind the cluster.
