Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Diagnosing why I keep blowing fuse 34

Two wires rubbed through insulation at battery's + side and shorted the starter. It tried to start without keyed ignition. Drained battery. By the time I found the problem, I ruined the starter which I replaced. Now, when I put my foot on the brake and go from park down through reverse, it blows fuse 34. With this blown, the radio, electric mirrors, courtesy lights, and clock don't work. And, with this fuse blown, every time I step on the brake, the solenoid which enables you to move the shifter out a park "clicks" or is activated. Any ideas?
'95 GL 4 cyl. Automatic

It sounds like a short. It will always keep blowing until you fix the wiring. Check all of your wiring that fuse 34 protects. Maybe the copper of one of those wires are probably touching metal. I hope this helps.

You will need to consult the EVTM to determine what circuits and wires might be causing this.

Troubleshooting a short circuit in a car is among the more challenging projects. Be prepared to cut and splice wires, remove panels, open wiring harnesses, and generally get frustrated. Either get plenty of spare fuses or put in a resettable circuit breaker for live testing.

Otherwise, get a digital multimeter with a audible continuity beeper. That will help alot by letting you connect the meter with clips and then listening for the indication of the short. Unplug, if possible, load circuits. Cut wires only if needed. Once you identify the branch of the circuit that has the short, you will need to disconnect loads from it until you locate either a shorted load or the individual wire that is shorted to ground.

Good luck. This is a time consuming project unless you get lucky and hit the problem quickly.

Steve

Thanks. I am aware of the coming frustration. What is EVTM and where do I access or get it?

There are electrical diagrams in my Haynes manual. Stop at Autozone or Walmart or wherever and pick up a Haynes manual. It'll help with other projects, too. Mine has definitely paid for itself many times over, especially since my brother's fiance has a '97 'tour.

On the assumption that your original problem is the cause of your current one can you be a little more precise of the location, description and colors of the wires that caused the problem. Did they short to ground or each other? How were they fixed?
Transmission range sensor on top of atx is in the battery area and wiring thereto could be involved.

If I read your post correctly it sounds like starter solenoid or relay was activated, without key in ignition, causing starter to operate continuosly and it subsequently burned out.

EVTM = Elecrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
Essentially the Ford wiring diagrams, I have '97 version.

Edit: Educated guess, let's see if we're lucky; diode in engine compartment fuse box and interior fuse panel should be checked.

First of all several years ago I bought a battery that didn't quite fit. Both the positive (RED) cable and a thinner one next to it that runs down toward the starter are taught and touch the top edge of the battery. From vibration and bumps etc. the wires both became exposed. By touching the battery top and being fairly close together with the aid of some grime and possibly condensation they were able to "cross" without touching. The "completed" circuit caused the starter to try to turn over the motor until the battery died. At that point I had no idea of the problem or cause. I jumped the car and hear the starter continuing to engage the flywheel. It stopped and I jumped in the car for a ride to charge the battery. It engaged while I was driving. I took it home and checked the battery terminals and that's when I heard a little sizzling going on at the edge of the battery where the wires were touching. I taped the bare areas and tried to start it but he solenoid wouldn't engage. That's when I started to replace the starter (which took me forever because it is located in the worse place you can imagine). When the new one was in and everything was put together, it started up and no electrical problem were experienced. That night the radio, clock, mirrors, and courtesy lights were dead. I found fuse 34 blown. I replaced it and it seem to blow when I shift it out of park to reverse.

Plse re-read above I may have edited while you were composing.

Yeh, OEM replacement battery best on these cars.

Forget about atx range sensor & wiring, go with diode check. Do not use normal ohmmeter, you must use diode checker which most digital voltmeters have.

I tested D2 on the fuse box under the dash and D1 under the hood. Both diodes are ok. Fuse 34 seems to blow as I brake and move shifter from park to reverse. I'm just wondering how these wires relate to the original starter problem and replacement.

Noted , I will post later this evening.