Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Serpetine Belt Change Tool

What's the hot setup to hold the idler pully while changing the serpentine belt? I can't fit a 3/8 drive wrench between the body and the idler arm, nor can I get a Torx in the fastner at the pivot point. I didn't ask the parts house if they had something, but coming up on 80K, it's due for a change. Looking underneath the car didn't hold out any promises...

Turn wheel full right.
Jack passenger side.
Remove front wheel.
Remove two 10mm bolts securing splash shield.
Remove splash shield.
Now you can get your 3/8 drive breaker bar in there to release tension and change the belt.

AL

The small 3/8" drive ratchet that comes with the Craftman's 48 piece toolsets fits. That's the only thing I need when I take the belt off. The important thing is that you have to get a ratchet that has a flatter head. I always do it from the top too. It's much eaiser than jacking the car up, taking the wheel and splash guard off, just to do the same thing in the same small space but with less leverage.

Just replaced the belt on mine, and it was very tight. I had a tool simmilar to this one, and it made it very easy. It may be worth the $30 just to save you a lot of time and aggrevation. Compared to the serpintine belt, the water pump belt is a snap.

The tool is Sears Item #00941831000 $29.99

Thanks for the help. I got around to this today. I did it from the bottom and was able to get a Sears 3/8" breaker bar worked into location. Removal of the old belt was a snap. Installation of the new took a little longer because I routed it incorrectly around the idler. Once I looked at the diagram on the shock tower I was able to complete the installation with no problems.

At least now I can head for Atlanta without worrying about the belt breaking...

I took my car over to my brothers to get it checked out (He's got his own garage! ) and we determined that the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley are junk and needed replaced (Doing that Monday). Anyways, he has a tool that he said he got for $40 that's called a "Belt Tensioner Wrench". Basically, it's a long, kind of slim piece of metal with a spot on the end to put on different sockets or wrench pieces. Let me tell you, we didn't have to get under the car at all that day, we did it all from the top. Did even have to put the car up either. When you take your belt off, I recommend grabbing that tensioner and pulling up on it. If it goes back in place with alot of force, then it's fine. (Be careful!) If it does like mine and takes awhile, or needs help going back into place, the spring is probably bad and needs replaced. He gets parts at a discount so the kit only costed him $22, but it's normally $75 from Ford. Also, an idler pulley will run you generally $18 to $25.

IMHO, using that tensioner wrench keeps you from stripping the damn bolt, like I did before I went to my brother's garage a couple months ago (replaced the serp belt myself).

which is the main belt on the left side of engine, it seems to be the longest one. mine is starting to slightly crack. does it need to be a ford belt or can it be replaced by what my mechanic uses. how much will this generally cost to do.

I am not sure about the 4-cylinder, but the 6-cylinder has the serpentine belt (aka, drive belt or crankshaft belt) on the left side of the engine (as you look at the engine towards the rear of the car). The belt does not have to be a Ford belt, just one that fits properly. I believe that the length of the belt will depend on whether or not you have air conditioning.

I did the belt last fall by myself (it's pretty easy once you know how). I bought it at Yates/Carquest (part #K060716) and it cost about $19. My car has A/C.

As some of the previous posters have alluded to, it is very hard to get a tool into the tensioner pulley. I bought three different tools and had to return two of them. The one that finally worked was a Sears 3/8"-drive 10"-long flex handle (aka breaker bar)(Sears item #0094436300 for ~ $11.00).

Just to clarify, to loosen the serpentine belt you need to get a 3/8"-drive tool into the tensioner pulley. The idler pulley is another different pulley that is next to the tensioner pulley, but is not a part of replacing the serpentine belt.

As long as you're talking about the idler pulley, anytime you change your belt, make sure you spin that idler pulley. If it doesn't spin smooth and you can feel it grab, the bearings are shot. This will account for most of the "my belt is squealing, but I replaced the belt!" problems.