Originally posted by Pascal:
LOL! It's all good then! 
Originally posted by Plastique_synthetiX:
Kind of cutting the sho shop bar, and then welding it onto the OMP brace so that it will hold both the top of the struts and the strut tower....
I'm not liking this at all either.
There's a bushing up there to allow some movement of the strut within the tower. In motorsports they replace bushing top mounts by pillow-ball (spherical bearing) assemblies, which take 100% of the flex away. They still don't go out and bolt the shaft directly to the car's chassis, and there's got to be a reason behind that.
One of them would definitely be caster. The angle of the strut pin in relationship to the strut tower should be allowed to change. I'm throwing ideas here as to why some failures have been observed with that SHO-shop bar.
Correct Pascal. The caster change in a Macpherson strut suspension is substantial when turning the wheel. The angle of the strut changes as you turn the wheel. So if you constrain the strut (by using the SHO Shop Brace) you'll fatigue the threaded portion and eventually snap it off. What's even worse is that when you make a turn. one struts tils forward, while the other will tilt backwards. So not only are they being consrained (in the SHO Shop desigh) but you are inducing opposing forces on each strut - very bad!
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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