Quote:
Originally posted by horseydug:
First off I hope all this tightening is taking place with cable to neg battery terminal disconnected.

Second have you cleaned off all the scorching/corrosion on the main alternator connection and the lug of the connecting wire?

Are you sure your post alteration is OK?

Are you able to get battery volts at cable that connects to alternator, i.e. 12 volts to neg bat terminal?
1. Yes I have a healthy fear of electricity and faithfully pull the plug before sticking wrenches back there.

2. It is beyond being able to clean - the nut got locked on and the bolt sheared off when I tried to remove it. That is the reason for the bad connection to begin with - the nut never got tight cuz it siezed onto the corroded bolt. It needs to be replaced before I can test it again.

3. Post alteration - it was the original post, ran for 65000 miles so it should be a good match - unless the parts folks sold me the wrong alternator. I will check on that on Monday.

4. I've got battery voltage at the two alternator test points ('A' and 'F') but I haven't tested at the output wire. Does that show 12 volts even when the engine isn't running?


'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX

Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * left CV joint * alternator * shift interlock *heater tube * VSS *tensioner *
Why do I still love it?