read last post, about the timer, on mine there aren't connectors on both ends, but clips, i have to use a pick or screwdriver to release the clips and the timer module pulls out from the bottom of the fuse box. it has a 20 pin connector on the backside of it which plugs into the fuse box when the timer is snapped in place.
about the r12 relay, what i was hoping was that one side of the coil is always connected to +12 and that the timer provides the ground. if this is the case, i should be able to rewire easily.
if one side is constantly connected to ground and the timer provides +12, then i will have to use relays to make the door triggers provide +12 volts to the relay instead of ground. if i were to bypass the timer like we talked about.
I didn't have a chance to check the relay yet, been pretty busy at work, i will check tomorrow.
I am thinking this, if the r12 relay is constantly connected to +12 and the timer provides ground, then i should be able to break the circuit in the timer leading to pin 9 (using a hobby knife to cut the embedded circuit), and run jumper wires from pins 1 and 2. I will have to diode isolate pin 2 so that the key in and/or headlight on dinger will not sound without the drivers door being open, but that's not difficult. this way, i will be able to do all of this without having to climb under my dash, except to remove & replace the timer. but with my luck, pin nine will be a positive output.
anyways, i'll check that tomorrow.
