Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting wiring diagram?

does anyone have or know where i can get a wiring diagram for the central timer unit? it is the box attached to the bottom side of the fuse box under the dash.

thanks

The manual I have only shows external connections to the timer, but not the internal circuitry, which is simply noted as being solid state.

i think that the external connections are all i need to know, i am trying to bypass the twelve second timer on the interior lights, so that they will turn off as soon as i close the doors. what manual do you have?

I thought you could do that simply by the 3 position switch on the dome light normal/off/12 second delay.
I have the electrical manual for a '97.

Edit @ 8:00am: OK now that I've had a coffee I see my original answer was partially wrong. I think the first position of the switch is ON rather than NORMAL. The on position doesn't bypass delay it simply keeps lights on. I guess the way it currently works is that ignition key puts lights out if the 12 sec hasn't expired.

I'll think about this a little more and re-post.

Do you have remote entry?

yes i had remote entry, but i added an alpine security system that has domelight control. the only thing that i don't like is that the factory 12 second delay keeps the interior lights on even after i have armed the alarm, so i figured with a diagram of the outputs of the central timer unit, i could bypass the 12 second delay. If i could figure out which output becomes active only when the door is open, and not for 12 seconds after the door is closed, i could tap the lights to that output instead of the current one that delays for 12 seconds.

thanks for your help

Well I think you have a task cut out for you and the Ford manual I have is not that clear, accurate or easy to plow thru'. But here goes:

From what I see the central timer module accepts separate inputs from 4 sources relevant to your mod; front door handle switches, driver's door jamb swich, the three other door jamb swiches and the factory remote entry module. I presume the driver's door is kept separate so the timer's logic can activate other functions such as headlight chimes, key-in buzzer, etc. The remote is kept separate since it always requires a delay (to keep interior lit as you approach, and unfortunately, to your chagrin as you walk away). I don't understand the separation of the others (although inside timer they may all come together), but backfeed of 12+ power may be the reason.

The timer controls lights via courtesy light relay r12 which is white and should show in your owner's manual (located top left of interior fuse panel). This relay has its coil energized from the timer and the relay's contacts close to complete the ground path for all lights; domes, under dash, under door. The timer logic decides whether to allow r12 to be energized, and when to de-energize it, with/without delay.
If you simply remove the above inputs from the timer and rewire r12's coil circuit to accept them as inputs you will lose driver's door functions from the timer as descibed above and perhaps others I'm unaware of.

Digest and critique the above and I will tabulate pin-out for timer in a subsequent post.

wow thanks for the info. from what you posted i can see a few points that i don't think will apply to my car. for one i don't have door handle switches, probably another decontention, but my interior lights don't come on when i pull my door handle (unless of course, the door opens.) second, the keyless entry input is irrelevant since i have upgraded to an alpine unit. but i don't really want to change any of the inputs, just basically to cut the connection between the timer and relay r12 and reroute it to an output that doesn't delay 12 seconds after the door is closed. that does make sense right? i'm just hoping that the timer has an output that doesn't delay.

thanks again

I'll leave the disappointing answer to your last post until later, here's the pin-out for the timer module:

1 rear & pass dr sws
2 drvr dr sw
3 w/wsh sw
4 rear defr sw
5 not used
6 ignition (hot in run)
7 park lamps sw
8 key-in sw
9 ill entry (to r12)
10 s/belt lamp
11 frnt dr handle sws
12 remote entry (i.e. from r/e module)
13 power (ie +12 fused)
14 interval wiper rate
15 ground
16 s/belt switch
17 inter wiper switch
18 wiper park
19 rear defr relay
20 inter wiper relay

Terminals are numbered with the timer removed and terminals facing you with the 2 interlock tabs pointing up; top row 1-10, right to left; bottom row 11-20 left to right. HOWEVER, this manual is terrible, lacks clarity and has errors. Terminals 1-10 functions above match various system diagrams BUT 11-20 functions show reverse numbering, e.g., terminal 18 would show as 13 in the wiper circuit. Someone got their lefts and rights mixed up at Ford! (In other words assuming 1-10 functions are correct 11-20 functions should be reversed, door handles become inter wiper relay -- with me? if not ask.)

To now answer your question; as I suggested in previous post, and as above terminals show, there is no available non-delay output, all the logic is internal (if this & this - delay, if that and that - no delay}

I'm a hunt & peck typist so you read, I'll rest my fingers and I'll check back later tonight or early tomorrow.

p.s. Without revealing items of national security what in general does your new security system do? and what alterations to stock car wiring did you do to install it?

this is top secret, but the new alarm doesn't do much more than any other alarm, i just want the interior lights to turn off when i arm the alarm, i also would like the dome light to turn off when the door is closed(with the ignition off,) not twelve seconds later. thanks for the info, i'll do some testing tomorrow at work.

-edit-

after reviewing the pin-outs a little more, it would seem to be easier to disconnect the r12 relay from pin nine and run my own relays to turn the interior lights on only when a door was opened or the alarm was disarmed. it won't be that hard, just cut the pin 9 connection, tap onto pins one and two, diode isolate pin two, run both into relay r12 along with the dome light control wire from the alarm. sounds simple enough, right?

depending on the polarity of the pin 9 output, i may need to use more relays, do you know if it is a positive or negative output? i know the door triggers are negative trigger and the dome light control from the alarm is negative. anyways,

thanks for your time

Pin 9 should have a positive output. I'll have to study your 2nd para in the morning when I'm fresh, but I think you're headed in right direction.
Glad to be of assistance.