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On my way to work this morning my car started making a grinding noise. Kind of like grinding into gear or draging a muffler. At first I thought it was the semi next to me, but as soon as I passed him and got on the on-ramp I knew this was my car. When I got to work I popped the hood and sure enough my supercharger is grinding bad, you can hear it from at least 30 ft away. Has this happened to anybody else? I am gonna tow it to the shop unless I can take the drive belt off and run it like that? Is that possible? Dang, what a way to start a day.
2004 Evolution VIII cams-exhaust-tune
315whp 12.7@109
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Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
Joined: Nov 2000
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There are two fualts seen in the past on these cars. One is the seals go bad and you get blow by, the other is the shaft was going bad and not spinning the S/C. Sounds like you may have actually broken an impeller blade or something similar. I'd call vortech and get a repair authorization number and then get busy taking the S/C off and then rearranging things so you can still drive the car if need be.
Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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I just went out and listened to it. It deffinitly sounds like the impeller is scraping the housing. I wasn't even getting on it this morning, driving like a old lady more like it. This must have been something that was building up to catastrophy. The thing was running like a champ yesterday. bogus. I hope its under warranty.
2004 Evolution VIII cams-exhaust-tune
315whp 12.7@109
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How do you remove the SC so that you can drive it again? Is it possible to leave the belt and jackshaft hooked up and support the shaft with the transmission bracket? Or do you need to remove the idler assembly and use the stock belt? Just curious.
Sorry BStone Mega! This would suck!
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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Originally posted by kinger:
How do you remove the SC so that you can drive it again? Is it possible to leave the belt and jackshaft hooked up and support the shaft with the transmission bracket? Or do you need to remove the idler assembly and use the stock belt? Just curious.
Sorry BStone Mega! This would suck!
All those are good questions. Also, do i need to remove my chip? I assume the fmu can stay, I'll have to plug the oil lines too. I hope I can run it because I don not want to rent a car for weeks on end. 
2004 Evolution VIII cams-exhaust-tune
315whp 12.7@109
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
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IIRC you have to pull the idler assembly and go back to the stock belt size. Mark Rowe (Worldtour) has done it several times so he'd be best to consult on exactly what has to be done.
Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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Originally posted by BStoneMega:
Originally posted by kinger:
How do you remove the SC so that you can drive it again? Is it possible to leave the belt and jackshaft hooked up and support the shaft with the transmission bracket? Or do you need to remove the idler assembly and use the stock belt? Just curious.
Sorry BStone Mega! This would suck!
All those are good questions. Also, do i need to remove my chip? I assume the fmu can stay, I'll have to plug the oil lines too. I hope I can run it because I don not want to rent a car for weeks on end.
FMU can stay, pull the chip though. Plug those oil lines. and you'll probably have to re-install a air intake. After that you should be good. I feel for ya man I know how tight it is to get that that idler assembly! 
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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Well, the tow trucks on the way, My shop is gonna get authorization from vortech to remove it and send it in under warranty. The initial installation was faulty and Vortech is fully aware of this (believe me). So this may actually work out to be a good deal and I can get back some more of my install money. we'll see.
2004 Evolution VIII cams-exhaust-tune
315whp 12.7@109
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Back In Black
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Back In Black
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Remove the idler assembly and install the stock size belt. You can leave the chip & FMU. If you remove the chip and for some reason Vortech requires you to resend your PCM in to them in the future they will see that the seal that they installed has been tampered w/ and they will not honor the warranty.
If the impeller is cracked or broken DO NOT drive the car unless the SC drive is bypassed! if the impeller is rubbing you run the risk of flashings getting into the engine!!! IIRC, they don't combust very well!
-Mark
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Originally posted by WorldTour:
Remove the idler assembly and install the stock size belt. You can leave the chip & FMU. If you remove the chip and for some reason Vortech requires you to resend your PCM in to them in the future they will see that the seal that they installed has been tampered w/ and they will not honor the warranty.
Oh yeah good point, just don't go over 4000 rpm much because of the retarded timing from that point on.
Hey Mark did you get a 3 year warranty? I only got a 1 year (purchased 10-02) because its extended drive. Did they lower that period after all the intial probs?
BStone what warranty do you have 1 or 3 years?
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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