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Is it better to have a shop try to repair the existing subframe (aka rear crossmember) or just get a new one and box it in before it get's installed?
Go with a new boxed frame. Though repairing the old *will* work, it's still damaged goods.
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Only one side broke but I'm worried that the other side may have experienced severe metal fatigue also and may not stand up to the welding.
It's going to go, and quick. Now trying to do the job of both brackets, at a very screwed up angle.
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Without taking the bar off, is there something I can do to quiet the clunking before I can apply a permanent fix?
I thought the same when mine went. Taking the bar off will prevent any further damage along with ridding the noise, however, the cost is a loose rear end (hah!). Maybe disconnecting it from the end links will help, if you can find a way to zip-tie the bar in an upright position. Though it will still probably rattle a bit.
-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6
-98 LS with BPU
-05 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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