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I had hoped to make it to spring/summer before I boxed in my sway bar moint points on my rear subframe. Thanks to the mighty power of the Aussie bar, a couple of well placed new potholes, and road salt, it just wasn't meant to be. The passenger side mount point looks like it is totally ripped off.

Is it better to have a shop try to repair the existing subframe (aka rear crossmember) or just get a new one and box it in before it get's installed? Only one side broke but I'm worried that the other side may have experienced severe metal fatigue also and may not stand up to the welding.

Without taking the bar off, is there something I can do to quiet the clunking before I can apply a permanent fix?

I'll try to take some picture tomorrow for all to see.

George



George Hodge New: Volvo S60R Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150 DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe) BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Quote:

Is it better to have a shop try to repair the existing subframe (aka rear crossmember) or just get a new one and box it in before it get's installed?



Go with a new boxed frame. Though repairing the old *will* work, it's still damaged goods.

Quote:

Only one side broke but I'm worried that the other side may have experienced severe metal fatigue also and may not stand up to the welding.



It's going to go, and quick. Now trying to do the job of both brackets, at a very screwed up angle.

Quote:

Without taking the bar off, is there something I can do to quiet the clunking before I can apply a permanent fix?



I thought the same when mine went. Taking the bar off will prevent any further damage along with ridding the noise, however, the cost is a loose rear end (hah!). Maybe disconnecting it from the end links will help, if you can find a way to zip-tie the bar in an upright position. Though it will still probably rattle a bit.


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Stevers,

I've been in contact with Terry Haines and he's going to send me a boxed-in subframe ready for install. After that,
I shouldn't have to worry about anything else.

Actually the car doesn't feel terribly bad at all. Not even in turns. The car just seems to lean a little more in the turns. I'm wondering if the BAT suspension is helping to keep things sane because of the higher spring rate.

George


George Hodge New: Volvo S60R Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150 DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe) BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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In the last two weeks every once and a while I hear a noise from the back of the car, I wonder if it had something to do with my sway bar. To much snow and to cold to look under the car right now though.


1999 Silver Frost Contour SVT 2690 of 2760 Born 08/13/1999 Sony Mobile ES CDX-C90 Deck 6 1/2 Infinity Kappa Perfect mid & tweet set, 2 12 Infinity Kappa Perfects JBL P.600.1 for Bass, P.180.2 for front stage.
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Can I ask what the Terry is charging to ship a boxed subframe?


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760) "People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use." -Soren Kierkegaard (as posted by Jato)
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Yes I would also like to know costs! Also, please, please provide pictures of the reinforcements BEFORE you install your new subframe. I very much want to know how it is supposed to be done - and from other's posts there is plenty of interest in this!

PS: I got a dropped subframe, an Aussie bar and a wire-feed welder just waiting for a free weekend!

Last edited by JEDsContour; 03/12/03 01:07 AM.

99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock). 99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress) 96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Dan,

I don't have exact costs yet but it's in the vicinity of $80 for a used subframe (~$186 new) + $100 to box it in and make it Aussie bar ready (i think that means backing plate welded on) + ~$30 shipping. Hopefully I can get mine by the end of next week. I will definitely be taking pictures of the boxed in subframe before it goes in.

George


George Hodge New: Volvo S60R Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150 DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe) BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Today is my first day checking out this website and I'm glad to see that someone knows about this sway bar bracket issue I've been fighting for ages! My right rear bracket is shot and it tore out the mounting hole for the bolt... I had a new bracket welded to the subframe but that lasted until I pulled out of the shop's driveway. I live in a hilly area with positively horrendous roads so I've got a constant and LOUD clattering under my car now. Turns lots of heads, too.

So, in short, I've searched all the archives and whatnot and hear lots about boxed-in subframes and backing plates but I'm lost. Please, can someone explain to me what I need to do to fix this problem short of taking the sway bar off the car? I'd much appreciate it as would my head (from the thumping) and everyone who rides in my car!

Matt


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Matt,
This issue has been addressed on this website for over a year. Terry sent updated brakets with the last Aussie bar group buy!

If you search you will find a detailed pic of a boxed in mount!

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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I searched for subframe (for 1 yr back) and did not come up with a picture or detail of the boxed in rear sub frame... Any pictures or does anyone have the refernece to existing material?
Thank you.
Lee


98 Black SVT
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