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Originally posted by kool aid:
I'm about to pull an engine also. Don't I need some Tool to remove the fuel Lines? I remember somebody talking about that



yeah autozone has it for like 5 bucks. It s a little chrome X shaped thing that compresses the spring inside there.


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you don't technically need the fuel disconnect tool... i went to autozone to buy one and they didn't have any left in stock... there are 2 7mm (or 8mm) bolts that hold the fuel pressure sensor together on the fuel rail... disconnect the bolts, some fuel will spill which you should catch with a rag... and you are good to go... just remember no smoking while doing this... oh and don't lose the little rubber o-ring either


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I agree with Puck.

On my returnless engine you could just remove those 2 bolts and you are done. (IIRC they were 7mm)


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WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!

I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.


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I bought one of the tools and it was the wrong size. I dunno if the svt has bigger fuel lines or what, but both the gm and ford sides of the tool were too small. I just cut a 1" long piece of 1/2" diameter copper pipe off and split it down the middle. Insert a piece on each side of the collar and it pulls right out. Fab -u-lous!

Last edited by 95Mike; 03/12/03 09:39 PM.

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Originally posted by bnoon:


I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.




Were did you get it from?I would like a nice set also.


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Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!



Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.

See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. (those are cool too! )

...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great!


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by bnoon:
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHHAAATTTTTT? DemonSVT skimping out on buying new tools?!?!?!?!?! Tell me it's not true!



Actually I have the $10 set of plastic disconnect tools. 2 bolts were much quicker.

See sometimes smarter beats the fancy smancy tools. (those are cool too! )

...and no I never did get the air nailer. I just used coated & colored deck screws. Worked out great!




You must have some faulty plastic disconnect tools then. I've got Kinger's fuel line disconnect on video. I'll download it to my site again since it's such a small file. Two bolts using a high speed air ratchet would get whooped... Even when doing the return style cars.

Originally posted by kool aid:
Originally posted by bnoon:


I've got the whole set of the nice plastic ones that fit the fuel lines and AC lines for Ford, some GM, and some Chrysler. Whole set ran me $28 and take seconds to disconnect/reconnect.




Were did you get it from?I would like a nice set also.




I got my set from O'Reily's Auto Parts locally. 4 pieces in one box, 2 in another. They're a split, spring loaded plastic circle that slips over the fuel line connector. Takes only seconds per connection.


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Warmonger. I have a question man, do all 3L duratecs have electric water pumps?? I want to do a srtaight swap with mine. Why do you have to use the 2.5 timing cover?? Do I have to use the 2.5 heads?? It's a non-SVT.I know I have to change the oil pan and the pick up tube?? How long did it take you to install the motor??


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Originally posted by fordcontoursport:
Warmonger. I have a question man, do all 3L duratecs have electric water pumps?? I want to do a srtaight swap with mine. Why do you have to use the 2.5 timing cover?? Do I have to use the 2.5 heads?? It's a non-SVT.I know I have to change the oil pan and the pick up tube?? How long did it take you to install the motor??




Man, are you ever confused!

1. Electric water pumps are after market only. Ford OEM water pumps are similar on the 2001+ 3L, but then the oval head ports require the 3L intakes to be used, or adapter plates to be made for the 2.5 intakes to fit, of which both options take some fabrication. Using a 2000 or older 3L requires the electric pump if you're keeping the 3L heads because the water pump is in a different place on those years. If you use the 2.5 heads, you can use the factory 2.5L water pump.

2. Timing cover from the Taurus won't fit. The 2.5 one is needed to keep all of your factory accessories, like power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning...

3. No, you do not have to use the 2.5L heads. As described above, as well as in tons of threads found using the search feature, you will find that you have many options to decide on that will dictate which heads you use or which modifications you need to run which style of heads.


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