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Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
Did you drain the brake fluid reservoir?
If so, I assume not the master cylinder.
Did you drain the power steering fluid reservoir?
If so, how did you suction it out, or drain it?
Did you leave the radiator in on cotter pins?
What did you leave out or add to the FORD CD manual?
Sold 1998 Contour LX 13.868 sec 1/4 mile time.
Two years of rental cars, seriously.
Holding out for 07 Cobra Mustang.
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Originally posted by HoosierContour:
Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
Did you drain the brake fluid reservoir?
If so, I assume not the master cylinder.
Did you drain the power steering fluid reservoir?
If so, how did you suction it out, or drain it?
Did you leave the radiator in on cotter pins?
What did you leave out or add to the FORD CD manual?
1. Left the hood on and opened it fully without the prop rod. Then braced it with a piece of aluminum rod just in case the wind picked up. Gives tons of room and it will hold itself open.
2. No. No need to pull the master cylinder, just be carefull to turn the transaxe assembly as you are hoisting it out. I did it myself without any help if that tells you how easy it is.
3. No. I popped it out of its brackets and unhooked the lines from the pump. Then I tucked it up onto the hood cowling to keep it out of the way. Lost fluid but no biggie.
4. I pulled the cooling fans and radiator. Give a lot more room to work on things and you won't ram the engine into it when lifting it out.
5. The ac compressor unbolts easily when the radiator is out. I left the ac lines all hooked up and supported the condenser with some wire since it is supported by little brackets on the radiator. Once the radiator is out, the compressor can sit nicely on the front frame crossmember. This is nice so you don't vent your ac system.
The only other issues were the shift cable clips. They do pop off with a good pry-bar, carefull not to break them as they are plastic. Don't pop loose the adjusters or you'll have to readjust them.
6. Pull the hole strut assembly since it is very easy to pull it down once you pop the tie-rod, lower ball joint, and strut tower nut. Pop the half-shafts loose at the trans on the left side and the axle extension on the right. Remove the strut and half-shafts as an assembly to save assembly/dissassembly time AND having to buy new axle nuts as well as possible screwed up axle threads. Pulling them out of the hubs can cause premature bearing wear too.
Don't bother to pull the alternator or exhaust manifolds since the engine is compact and will lift out very easily. You should pull the y-pipe though.
Oh yea, pull the front bumber cover off so it doesn' get damaged and provides a lot more access room.
There: I gave all the good shortcut and $$$ saver tips I can about pulling the motor/trans assembly. It only took me about 4 hours from the time I started tear-down to when I was ready to hook up the hoist.
Happy tear-down!
warmonger
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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A few more questions.
1. What size bolts are used to mount the block to the engine stand? 10mm x 1.5?
2. Since I have a 98 Non-SVT, what is the best option? I was thinking because of the non-svt parts, the entire longblock from a 2001+ sans the oil pan, pickup tube and front timing cover.
3. How important/what mileage of a 3L would I consider not using new rings, bearings, and seals? I was hoping not to tear down the engine.
4. How much of the crankshaft bushing will have to be trimmed off? Are we talking 1mm, 1cm, 1in, 2in? 3/8"? Cut the bushing off flat at the crank with a hacksaw?
5. Link to a list of all the TTY bolts?
6. What modification is needed on the secondary linkage if I choose to use the 3L heads?
7. Which year of 3L had valve reliefs in the pistons? 2001+?
8. What fabrication is needed with a complete 3L long block? IE EGR,IAC, fuel rail,vacuum lines etc.
Thanks.
Sold 1998 Contour LX 13.868 sec 1/4 mile time.
Two years of rental cars, seriously.
Holding out for 07 Cobra Mustang.
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about a month ago I posted the size of the bolts to the engine stand. I know its in here somewhere. IIRC its 10 x 1.25..... Originally posted by HoosierContour:
A few more questions.
1. What size bolts are used to mount the block to the engine stand? 10mm x 1.5?
2. Since I have a 98 Non-SVT, what is the best option? I was thinking because of the non-svt parts, the entire longblock from a 2001+ sans the oil pan, pickup tube and front timing cover.
3. How important/what mileage of a 3L would I consider not using new rings, bearings, and seals? I was hoping not to tear down the engine.
4. How much of the crankshaft bushing will have to be trimmed off? Are we talking 1mm, 1cm, 1in, 2in? 3/8"? Cut the bushing off flat at the crank with a hacksaw?
5. Link to a list of all the TTY bolts?
6. What modification is needed on the secondary linkage if I choose to use the 3L heads?
7. Which year of 3L had valve reliefs in the pistons? 2001+?
8. What fabrication is needed with a complete 3L long block? IE EGR,IAC, fuel rail,vacuum lines etc.
Thanks.
Ryan
Trollin!
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The bushing needs to have about 1.5-2 cm cut from it. Easy enough to check since you can keep on testing the flywheel until it fits. I just used a die-grinder cut-off wheel and cut it flush.
I think I'd get a new shortblock, or a low-mileage engine from a salvage yard. Personally the engine is the best way to go because you can get all kind of goodies and spare parts from it. Coil packs, DPFE sensor, vacuum switches, 24# injectors, plus all the 3L intake components that you can use to experiment with.
The rest of your questions were handled in other posts here, some within the last couple of weeks so you should be able to find them in a search.
Have fun, hope the tips help.
warmonger
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I'm about to pull an engine also. Don't I need some Tool to remove the fuel Lines? I remember somebody talking about that
98SVT #43
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Yes you will need a special tool that cost about 5-10 dollars at autozone. Looks like a plastic washer type deal or you can get the metal sicssor type. I like the plastic ones because there much easier to use. Warmonger, what did you use to pull the half shaft out of the trans? Last time I replaced my trans it was a biatch to get out and also to you reuse your clips on the ends of the half shafts? One more thing on the shifter cables I popped the retainer out and they came right off. Or I think they might be vice versa were they are locked when there popped out and unlocked when pushed out.I will haaave to look again. I think I might drop my trans again because of a to agressive clutch. Might have to replace it with one of those new specs. 
98CSVT specII yada yada yada
95 Mustang GT
M&M road&track box
HP stage one
60-mm
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Dustyn, want to help me swap an engine out for me?
I pickup the 95 SE this Sunday down in Stugis, KY.
Sold 1998 Contour LX 13.868 sec 1/4 mile time.
Two years of rental cars, seriously.
Holding out for 07 Cobra Mustang.
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Originally posted by HoosierContour:
Did you remove your hood or build the special tool to hold it open?
I used a bungie cord to the sunroof - not too tight, but the hood wasn't going anywhere and there were no obstructions over the engine.
'00 CSVT #570 - 3L hybrid
'95 Mystique - 2001 3L
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Mike I might be able to help one day next weekend. I will get back with you. I am trying to get mine back into shape. Hey you want to buy a heavy duty clutch cheap? I mean cheap!
98CSVT specII yada yada yada
95 Mustang GT
M&M road&track box
HP stage one
60-mm
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