Originally posted by wontgrowup: I would go with a KKM or similar filter with a heatshield of some sort....just my .02 cents.....
I do not ercommend the KKM or any other type of filter that has an inverse coned end.
Dyno proven high rpm HP loss.
Get a large mouth K&N.
Hoosier's idea of a non flanged Pro-M is not bad. It will free up another inch of length for the filter without any other changes. I suspect the price is the same for the flanged or non-flanged too so then it would also save you buying a MAF adapter. (Though you would have to buy a $200 Pro-M {which is worth it IMO} and have 19lb injectors)
What is it about the Pro-M that makes it worth $200 (or $137+shipping ) I'm guessing that it allow a greater volumer of air over stock...and the built in electronics handle this better.....yes? I've got OBDI, there shouldn't be any compatibility issues, right.....it's the same connectors,etc.
2000 WS6 Convertible A4 13.11 @ 107.5 with a lid, Ram Air and LTs
Gone:95 Mystique LS Young America edition V6, MTX 15.6 @ 91
From K&N RU-3530 is a cone filter, the RU-1785 is a cylinder. On the 3530, the inlet is bigger by 1/4", its 1 1/2 shorter in length. The 1785 is 3-1/2, 8-1/2" long.
Sold 1998 Contour LX 13.868 sec 1/4 mile time.
Two years of rental cars, seriously.
Holding out for 07 Cobra Mustang.
) I'm guessing that it allow a greater volumer of air over stock...and the built in electronics handle this better.....yes?