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OK, I know I have been here awhile and I should know better, but, well I don't  Question #1. I have had the 'tour a little over 3 years and never changed the brake fluid. I don't take the car to the track and it's just my daily driver. Most of the 20k a year I put on it is highway miles. But, if better fluid will help prevent fade or something, I'll do that. Question #2, besides costing money. Do stainless brake lines do anything besides improve pedal feel? Thanks guys  -Pete
"Bros before Hoes" <-- More men need this mentality.
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There will be no performance gains in changing the fluid. Only freshening up what is there. However as it gets older it can become more water contaminated and thus the boiling point will continue to go down. Perhaps in the future you may find that it boils, but seriously, in the conditions you describe I doubt it.
The SS lines are more for pedal feel than anything else. Some makers promote huge gians in stopping distances. This is usually due more to the driver being able to better modulate the pedal, so perhaps under extreme conditions one can argue that the gains are real. (They usually fail to mention the fit of new pads and rotors on some of those tests too)
Lastly, if you are up for the task of installing the lines you have to bleed the system anyhow so a good flush is in order. Then agian if saving the time and $150 is more important....forget about it.
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b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
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As Todd said, SS brake lines are primarily for feel, but I believe it's worth it. Brake fluid references: Brake Fluid Flush/Replacement: Pedal Pumping Style! Brake Fluid Break Down I flush my brake fluid about once a year with ATE . At $13 I think it's worth the extra money. It does need to be changed more frequently but I do that anyway. After three years you are probably due for a change. -Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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IMHO Three years is way too long - I do it at least once a year. Even a well sealed brake system will absorb significant amounts a moisture leading to deterioration of brake lines and components from the inside (totally avoidable). Bleeding brakes is a job made much simpler by the installation of "Speed-Bleeders" - bleeding fittings (screws?) with integral one way check valves - in place of the stock caliper and wheel cylinder fittings. I also have a special brake fluid bottle cap that allows me to set a quart bottle of brake fluid upside-down on the reservoir - automatically keeping the level full.
With these simple tools and some experience you can one man bleed your brake system very rapidly and easily. I can do my Explorer in about 15 minutes. My cars take longer since I have to remove wheels to get to the fittings - but no more than an hour using a floor jack.
When you bleed your system, compare your three year old fluid with fresh fluid - if you are a true car enthusiast you will never let it go that long again!
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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I definitely agree with Jed.
I flush all my fluids every 2 years tops. (except oil of course  )
In any system (P/S, brake, tranny, engine, coolant, etc) fresh fluid is a great maintenance tool against component failure and also ensures optimum performance.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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I read the brake fluid thing posted by Andy (above) now I just gotta see if places in my area have the good stuff.
FWIW, I ended up ordering the brake lines.
"Bros before Hoes" <-- More men need this mentality.
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I have noticed on several occasions that fresh fluid may provide a firmer pedal. I'm not sure if it was a result of getting some air out of the system in the process or if it was because old tired fluid actually does create a different feel. If the fluid is in pretty good shape to begin with, it won't make much difference.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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It's from getting the tiny (but compressible) air bubbles out.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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I like the idea of Castrol's LMA brake fluid, but the best thing is to keep moisture to a minium. It's sure to accelerate corrosion and wear inside. Hopefully this formual will help since I'm too cheap to install/purchase speed bleeds. Of course I've never run across any at the parts stores. Paul
Paul
98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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Autozone carries speed bleeders for the rear discs of all cars. I have a set from them - Like $8 IIRC - made bleeding the rears cake. I bled the front with a vacuum pump. Some cars have different front bleeders (like mine) and they do not carry that size. The others uses the same size as the rears. Oh yeah. Don't forget to bleed the clutch (if applicable) while you are at it. It shares it's fluid with the M/C and likes fresh fluid too.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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