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Quote:
Originally posted by Drumbo:
My '98 SVT has a similar problem -- sort of.

Stalling on deceleration happens occasionally. But when it happens, it happens with no warning. I'd be really bummed if it happened when doing something like making a precisely-timed left turn across the path of an oncoming SUV. And anyone riding shotgun would probably never speak to me or anyone else ever again.

Other than always happening when decelerating, there's no other pattern to it. No CEL, no erratic RPM, no A/C in use, no other nothing. It just dies -- and then restarts as soon as I crank it.

In case the question comes up, the only mod I've made is really minor: a K&G Filtercharger, installed about 6 months ago. And the stall problem was happening before that. The air filter is not on the list of suspects.

Any ideas, anyone?

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Quote:
Originally posted by Kyle Miller:
I have a 98 Contour SE Auto who doesn't want to stop without stalling, When i get to abotu 5 miles an hour the rpms drop to abotu 500 and the car sometimes fights really bd to stay running, and sometimes jsut stalls out ompletely? Can someone give me possible reazons why so i can try to have this car fixed?!?

Thanks Alot
I have the same problem with my 2000 SVT. I don't know for sure what the problem is but it seems that everyone else who has the same problem got it when they threw in the intake. That's when it started happening to me. My check engine light came on too. I read that you are supposed to pull out the #4 and #11 fuses (and leave them out for about 2 minutes) in the fuse box next to the battery every time you perform a mod(just another one of Ford's stupid safety features). But when I went to the fuse box I found my car doesn't have a #4 fuse. Maybe your 98 SE does. I hope that helps. Oh, and if you find out anything else about how to fix this stupid problem please share the info.

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Hi there....I just had the same problem. Mine would stall when RPMS got below a certain level. Mine ended up being the IAC Valve. The part from Ford is about 80.00 but you can get it cheaper from an Auto Parts store....and it is easy to put on.

Don

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I once had an issue with my a/c where my car would lose power and regain when it was raining. I just unplugged the a/c (plug is beside the washer fluid and it's like a cylinder looking plug, one side is red) and everything has been fine since. I never used my a/c in the past nor will I in the future so this didn't bother me at all and it was a cheap easy way to fix it. average cost to do this $0.!! Good luck. That might be the issue because it sure as hell was with mine and incase I forgot to mention, the a/c was tested and found to be pretty busted! the clutch would try to engage when it rained and it was almost stalling my car.


'95 Contour SE
Black Current
MODS:
2.75 pipe with high flow muffler straight from cat, K&N Induction, High Power Stereo&Sub combo.
TO DO LIST:
Mags, Tires, Suspension, Performance Chip, ????
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anyone have the part number for the IAC?

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I know I'm late on this topic but some things come to mind....bad gas(been there done that!), clogged injectors, bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter(mine was), vacuum leak(more then once), or bad spark plugs and/or wires(simple test and fix).


1998 Contour 2.5 Non-SVT (ATX)
SHO Y-Pipe
K&N Drop-in
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Check to make sure the upstream 02's arent majorly fugged up , one or both. When I went on a test drive with them disconnected, it would hover at 500 rpms, sometimes fluctuate then just die in neutral, coming to a stop. It didnt do this all the time but alot. Stop doing it when I reconnected the O2's, after the test - and had the codes cleared with a scanner. Also, I know that a MAF not reading the correct airflow, for example when the center post's backplane is removed, it just dies BAM in neutral or coming to a stop. Now I have a 5-speed but its still a v6 Contour. For what its worth. Cheers


BlackPantherSVT
2000 Contour SVT
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#2075 of 2150
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try putting it in neutral as already mentioned.

Never driven an auto, but it sounds like what happens when you forget to push in the clutch. I would tend to think tranny, if throwing it in neutral stops the behaviour. sounds like the torgue converter (again i have never owned an auto car before) is not "releasing" as you could make a manual do the same thing by slipping the clutch without adding any gas, esp if you are on the breaks.

If you take your foot off the break at a stop does the car start rolling without touching the gas?

No ridicule please as i'm just thinking out loud here. :rolleyes:


98 SE
BAT Big Brake Kit "C", Throttle Hang Fix, B&M Shifter, Lightly Cracked Secondaries, BAT Euro Handling Kit, 20% tint, Removed Ding Strips, ES Motor Mount Inserts, Borla CatBack, Apexi SAFC, HighTower Rear Brace, BAT 19mm rear bar, MSDS Headers & Y, AFE 20-35008 filter, ClutchMasters Stage 1, Fidanza FlyWheel, SVT T.B.
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svt uppers and lowers,
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My 95 tour did the same thing when i first got it. Took it to a machanic and he covered a vacuum leak and the car was fine. but my check engine light was on. i forget what it was, but it was $300 to fix frown


95'contour se
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I hope this info would help others with the same problem: I had this stalling problem on and off for about two different occasions now. The first time it went away after I reset the battery. That was about a year ago.
Now just a few days ago, this stalling problem came back. This time I cleaned my K&N drop-in filter, add a bottle of "Iso-Heet"(gets rid of water in the gas tank), and also reset the battery once again. Now the problem is gone, and hopefully gone for good. Seems like the cleaning of the air filter did it... just remember not to over oil the filter element if you have the K&N or KKM. Hope this helps.

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