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I tried a search but couldn't find a definite answer. In the How-To for the DMD install, it says it's optional to replace the crank seal, but it doesn't really say how to do it. Is it a "no-brainer" to replace? I've got the DMD and I'm just waiting for some warmer weather to put it in. I've also got a small oil leak in that general vicinity (that side of the engine anyway, I can't really tell where it's coming from) so I was going to go ahead and put in a new crank seal.
The oil leak is tiny. I wouldn't even worry about it, but it drips onto the exhaust and I get a burning oil smell. Ford replaced the pan gasket (or said they did) back in June under ESP. Either they didn't get it right, or it's leaking from somewhere else. Any other ideas where it might be coming from?
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Originally posted by White99SE:
I tried a search but couldn't find a definite answer. In the How-To for the DMD install, it says it's optional to replace the crank seal, but it doesn't really say how to do it. Is it a "no-brainer" to replace? I've got the DMD and I'm just waiting for some warmer weather to put it in. I've also got a small oil leak in that general vicinity (that side of the engine anyway, I can't really tell where it's coming from) so I was going to go ahead and put in a new crank seal.
The oil leak is tiny. I wouldn't even worry about it, but it drips onto the exhaust and I get a burning oil smell. Ford replaced the pan gasket (or said they did) back in June under ESP. Either they didn't get it right, or it's leaking from somewhere else. Any other ideas where it might be coming from?
What kind of oil? When I started running Synthetic on my SE (75K miles on it), it started leaking down the back side of the motor from the valve cover and onto the exhaust.
2003 Toyota Matrix
1972 Pontiac Ventura II "Sprint"
1998 SVT !SOLD! 
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It's really easy once you have the pulley off. You just pry out the old seal, carefully so you don't damage the housing. Tap in the new one lightly as not to damage it. Some like to add a bit of silicone to the outside of the seal to make sure it seals up. This is fine but don't overdo it! It is also good to put a small bit of oil on the rubber part of the seal to lubricate it. This helps prevent a tear in the seal during installation. Above all be patient! I've seen more cars messed up because someone was in a hurry. Good luck!
'98 SVT Contour, in at least 639 pieces 
4 Speed MTX...synchro and shift fork replacement in progress 
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Originally posted by WOLF24:
What kind of oil? When I started running Synthetic on my SE (75K miles on it), it started leaking down the back side of the motor from the valve cover and onto the exhaust.
Same oil that's always been in it, Motorcraft 5w20. The oil level hasn't dropped noticeably. There's just the occasional drips on the driveway and the slight burned oil smell when I get out of the car. The smell is not noticeable from inside.
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Originally posted by White99SE:
Same oil that's always been in it, Motorcraft 5w20. The oil level hasn't dropped noticeably. There's just the occasional drips on the driveway and the slight burned oil smell when I get out of the car. The smell is not noticeable from inside.
Do yourself and your engine a favor...switch to 5W-30 oil, preferably Mobil 1 5W-30. That 5W-20 garbage Ford is pushing is too thin to protect anything at even normal operating temperature.
'98 SVT Contour, in at least 639 pieces
4 Speed MTX...synchro and shift fork replacement in progress
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Originally posted by shotwell:
That 5W-20 garbage Ford is pushing is too thin to protect anything at even normal operating temperature.
the thinner oil has less resistance to flow and untimately reduces fuel consumption. A common misconception is that thin oils have low film strength when in-fact that is not true. Formulation of the oil is mainly what determines the film strength.
When you install a new seal or install a DMD not only should you apply oil to the seal but also to the sealing surface of the damper.
When installing the DMD or the stock crankshaft damper or under drive pulley the keyway must be sealed as well with oil resistant silicone (carefully select your silicone sealant, some are only rated for intermittent exposure to oil, you need one that is rated for continous exposure to oil, usually the balck and blue colored silicones are oil resistant)If not sealed oil will seep out through the space between the key and the keyway slot.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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Originally posted by shotwell:
It's really easy once you have the pulley off. You just pry out the old seal, carefully so you don't damage the housing. Tap in the new one lightly as not to damage it. Some like to add a bit of silicone to the outside of the seal to make sure it seals up. This is fine but don't overdo it! It is also good to put a small bit of oil on the rubber part of the seal to lubricate it. This helps prevent a tear in the seal during installation. Above all be patient! I've seen more cars messed up because someone was in a hurry. Good luck!
Originally posted by JSmith:
Originally posted by shotwell:
That 5W-20 garbage Ford is pushing is too thin to protect anything at even normal operating temperature.
the thinner oil has less resistance to flow and untimately reduces fuel consumption. A common misconception is that thin oils have low film strength when in-fact that is not true. Formulation of the oil is mainly what determines the film strength.
When you install a new seal or install a DMD not only should you apply oil to the seal but also to the sealing surface of the damper.
When installing the DMD or the stock crankshaft damper or under drive pulley the keyway must be sealed as well with oil resistant silicone (carefully select your silicone sealant, some are only rated for intermittent exposure to oil, you need one that is rated for continous exposure to oil, usually the balck and blue colored silicones are oil resistant)If not sealed oil will seep out through the space between the key and the keyway slot.
Thanks for the tips guys! I figured it would be fairly easy. I think I can handle it.
As for what type of oil I use, I hesitated to even post that 'cause I knew it would become another "oil debate thread", and that is the last thing I want to start. I've read countless threads here about it and I don't want to start another.
Thanks again guys!
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I took a screw driver and put the point on one side of the seal and gently tapped it with a mallet. 3 or 4 taps and it just popped out.
98 GL sport (V6 MTX)
The Durable Duratec? - (DMD, Metal impeller WaterPump, Synth & Stinky in the tranny)
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A good seal puller from your local auto parts store couldn't be more than $5 ... screw driver will do, but hard at times and can lead to slipping and scuffing the bore wall.
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Black RTV
Make sure you get it in the keyway of the new damper. I had the same problem.
Good Luck.
Timothy Grimes
98 SVT #2132
82 320i -Now armed with a hairdryer-
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