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1996 GL, MAF cleaned at 65,000, now have 71,000 miles. Car runs great, but I just want to know suggested procedure for cleaning the MAF on the Zetec 4. Thanks, Chris
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Just spray some Berryman B12 or non-chlorinated brake cleaner through the tube onto the wires to clean them of any oxidation and other contaminants. That's it.
-Lance
Lance Kinley
CEG Webmaster
95 SE, "Cassandra"
10 years!
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Welcome aboard mate! Wow! Three newbie's in one day!  Well I take it that you did not clean yours the lasttime. All you have to do is pull it, spray it with carb cleaner, let it dry, reinstall. The best way to clean it is to actually remove your sensor from its mount. You do this by removing the two T-20 security bolts (need a special t-20 with a hole in the middle. Can get them at Autozone I believe) and spray the filaments with the carb cleaner and let them dry very well. Then reinstall it. You should not have to clean the MAF sensor that often, unless you have an open element or a K&N drop-in air filter that is over oiled. But you asked and I told ya! Have fun on the site.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Spray sensor with electrical parts cleaner (which leaves no residue as compared to some other cleaners).
96 Contour SE
Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX
108,000 mi.
Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
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Originally posted by unisys12: The best way to clean it is to actually remove your sensor from its mount. You do this by removing the two T-20 security bolts (need a special t-20 with a hole in the middle. Can get them at Autozone I believe) and spray the filaments with the carb cleaner and let them dry very well. Then reinstall it.
This is NOT recommended (nor is it necessary). Not only are the sensor elements (thermistors) quite fragile, but the sensor is calibrated at the factory after it is installed on the housing. The MAF is one sensor that you want working at maximum accuracy, as the MAF readings are a major input on both fuel and spark.
Carb cleaner is also not the appropriate cleaner. Electronics cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner (both already mentioned) are best for the job.
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Originally posted by PA 3L SVT: Originally posted by unisys12: The best way to clean it is to actually remove your sensor from its mount. You do this by removing the two T-20 security bolts (need a special t-20 with a hole in the middle. Can get them at Autozone I believe) and spray the filaments with the carb cleaner and let them dry very well. Then reinstall it.
This is NOT recommended (nor is it necessary). Not only are the sensor elements (thermistors) quite fragile, but the sensor is calibrated at the factory after it is installed on the housing. The MAF is one sensor that you want working at maximum accuracy, as the MAF readings are a major input on both fuel and spark.
Carb cleaner is also not the appropriate cleaner. Electronics cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner (both already mentioned) are best for the job.
Ditto!!!
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Actually, it was cleaned most satisfactorily by the garage that did it - I'm just a DIYer who wants to save a little $$ the next time it is needed.
regards,
Chris
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Originally posted by Big Jim: Originally posted by PA 3L SVT: Originally posted by unisys12: The best way to clean it is to actually remove your sensor from its mount. You do this by removing the two T-20 security bolts (need a special t-20 with a hole in the middle. Can get them at Autozone I believe) and spray the filaments with the carb cleaner and let them dry very well. Then reinstall it.
This is NOT recommended (nor is it necessary). Not only are the sensor elements (thermistors) quite fragile, but the sensor is calibrated at the factory after it is installed on the housing. The MAF is one sensor that you want working at maximum accuracy, as the MAF readings are a major input on both fuel and spark.
Carb cleaner is also not the appropriate cleaner. Electronics cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner (both already mentioned) are best for the job.
Ditto!!!
I stand very corrected. Thanks
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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I just changed my stock MAF (bought a ProFlow)..it was spotless inside. I'm surprised you would need to clean it at all.
2000 Black SVT #2639/2760; w/18 OZ Superleggera's, Pirelli Pzero Nero.
MSDS Headers,Quaife LSD, CF DF, Borla,,chipped,DMD,Baer Track rotors.
Lowered/HR and Koni's; HPP & OMP
3L Valves w/ P&P Heads (thanks Kinger!)
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Webmaster
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Originally posted by DanCanuck: I just changed my stock MAF (bought a ProFlow)..it was spotless inside. I'm surprised you would need to clean it at all.
I hope so! If it was dirty in there, then that's a big problem!
The wires accumulate oxidation (they are heated) and perhaps a little oil if you are using an open element filter or K&N. It will be hard to see, if at all.
-Lance
Lance Kinley
CEG Webmaster
95 SE, "Cassandra"
10 years!
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