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#551406 02/19/03 12:36 PM
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I have a 98' 2.5L MTX that the lovely IMRC is decided to completely quit working on.

I need a new IMRC, where is the cheapest place to get it? Do you have to go to the dealer?

#551407 02/19/03 01:04 PM
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Originally posted by WA2FAST:
Do you have to go to the dealer?




No, unless you need it today. You can order it over the Internet for about a 30-40% discount, but it will take a few days to get to you.

Originally posted by WA2FAST:
I need a new IMRC, where is the cheapest place to get it?




Not sure about the cheapest, but you can try the following:

http://www.fordpartsonline.com
http://www.1stfordparts.com
http://www.fordpartsfast.com



96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
#551408 02/19/03 01:19 PM
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Okay great! I will check that out. Thank you very much. Does Bill Jenkins still do Contour parts as he used to? I haven't looked for the parts in a while, but I need to now because my car is slowwwwwwww with no IMRC. How do I get ahold of him if he still deals with those parts?

#551409 02/19/03 01:31 PM
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Not to sound like a retard... but what other parts (gaskets, and/or anything else) that I will need in order to perform this repair?

#551410 02/19/03 03:34 PM
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Originally posted by WA2FAST:
I have a 98' 2.5L MTX that the lovely IMRC is decided to completely quit working on.




Completely quit? How do you mean? If it's just a broken cable, then I can walk you through replacing it. I've been meaning to write a how-to on this, but haven't been able to get under the hood again for good pics.


-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6 -98 LS with BPU -05 Honda Odyssey EX-L mv .zig ..\for\great\.justice
#551411 02/19/03 04:51 PM
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Well, the problem has been ongoing for a while now (about 10k or so) and in hot weather imparticular, it would just flat out not work as it is doing now. What it would do is work okay for a while, then durring WOT or close to, it would either just fall flat on it's face (IMRC would stop opening the secondaries), or it would go in and out (you could blatently feel it opening and closing... fluttering, like it couldn't make up it's mind, for a few seconds) till it once again gave up and fell flat on it's face. This would consistantly happen and I would just be screwed for the rest of that drive. After letting it sit for a little while, it would work again on the next drive till it gave up again. I get the IMRC stuck open code which is BS since the thing is obviously closed and the car is in hardcore limp mode as a result. Car feels like a 3cyl. metro towing a semi. Anyway, that's what the deal is. My car was idling for a long time the other night and ever since then, it's done. For a couple of days now, it just doesn't work at all anymore... my guess is that the heat soak for that extended period of time cooked it. Obviously head has played a major roll in it's functionality anyway, so it finaly is done. I need a new one now.

#551412 02/19/03 04:54 PM
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When I get the new IMRC... from wherever I get it from, does it come with a new cable or do I just replace the little box under the Duratech cover?

#551413 02/19/03 05:01 PM
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Its a complete unit with cable...epoxy sealed into the little gray box.

#551414 02/19/03 09:36 PM
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It really does sound like a case of the frayed cable. I too had a P1518 (IMRC stuck open) code, even though they were closed. The cable was so mangled that it was holding the wheel inside the box in a position that made the controller think it was open.


-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6 -98 LS with BPU -05 Honda Odyssey EX-L mv .zig ..\for\great\.justice
#551415 02/20/03 03:38 PM
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I highly doubt it since the intake nor any of the IMRC system has ever been taken off of the car, but in any event... how do I test for the cable then? Should I take the box appart and play with the cable or something? I don't understand how it would be open, and then flutter around till it eventualy quit trying with it being directly related to heat and have it be the cable... but in any event, for the sake of testing it, how do I test it?

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