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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2 |
i need some ideas.
recently my 95 v-6 contour has started to overheat only at hi-way speeds. while driving my gauge will slowly keep rising all the way to hot. if i stop and let it idle the temp will quickly drop from the red area on the temp gauge to the "o" in normal within 30 seconds and stay there forever if all i did was sit there idling. as soon as i get driving down the road again the temp slowly starts rising.
it takes 3 to 5 minutes to get back up to the hot range. if i put the car in nuetral at cruising speed it will cool right down then too.
the car starts fine and runs fine. no strange noises or smells. i am not leaking coolant or anything else and the heater blows hot air.
i am not the most mechanical person i just need some ideas so i can hopefully avoid a disaster , unless i allready have one.
i have fun in my contour and want to keep it going. thanks
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10 |
A '95 V6, if you haven't had the water pump replaced by now, that is a likely source of problems. The "impeller" (a propeller like part that pushes the coolant through the engine) is made of plastic and basically falls apart after a while. My water pump (also a '95) gave out last year.
I wouldn't drive the car very much with an overheating problem. It's a good way to kill the engine or transmission.
It should be fairly easy for a mechanic to diagnose and fix this problem, so just take it in and have them take a look.
-R.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319 |
Welcome onboard.
Is the rad fan on when you are experiencing these overheat symptoms? If not, that could be the problem.
If fan working ok then plugged rad a possibility.
Latter point assumes wp checks out ok as recommended in previous post.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2 |
rad fans work fine. when i stop it sounds like a small plane under the hood until my car cools down. would my car be able to cool down so quickly when i come to a stop if the pump was bad or the rad was plugged? i don't know. that is what wierds me out. i will check those things out though. would a stuck or partially stuck heat riser valve or a bad cat cause my problem? let me know what you think , please. 
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10 |
Originally posted by helpme:
would my car be able to cool down so quickly when i come to a stop if the pump was bad or the rad was plugged? i don't know. that is what wierds me out.
Purely a conjecture, but ... if the pump is not working and the coolant is not circulating, then you could get a lower temperature reading as soon as the part of the cooling system near the temperature sensor cools down. So, if the sensor is near the radiator and the fan *is* working, then you might get the false impression that the entire engine has cooled down.
When the impeller in my water pump failed, it was rather obvious. The coolant in the reservoir was boiling over and dumping coolant on the pavement. So, you might have a different problem.
-R.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319 |
If pump is OEM then 99.9% chance some damage to impeller blades which would reduce coolant flow. When idling, less heat generated and with fan on you would get rapid cooling.
Should be checked asap and replaced with metal impeller pump from NAPA or other source.
p.s. Check FAQ section from home page for more info on wp failure and replacement.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603 |
Originally posted by helpme:
i need some ideas.
recently my 95 v-6 contour has started to overheat only at hi-way speeds. while driving my gauge will slowly keep rising all the way to hot. if i stop and let it idle the temp will quickly drop from the red area on the temp gauge to the "o" in normal within 30 seconds and stay there forever if all i did was sit there idling. as soon as i get driving down the road again the temp slowly starts rising.
it takes 3 to 5 minutes to get back up to the hot range. if i put the car in nuetral at cruising speed it will cool right down then too.
the car starts fine and runs fine. no strange noises or smells. i am not leaking coolant or anything else and the heater blows hot air.
i am not the most mechanical person i just need some ideas so i can hopefully avoid a disaster , unless i allready have one.
i have fun in my contour and want to keep it going. thanks
I have experienced this TWICE already, and it ONLY happens at highway speed when driving for a LONG time.
You need to have the Torque Converter in your transmission replaced, as well as the Valve Body.
When the Valve Body wears, it leaks pressure internally.
When the Torque Converter locks, and the Valve Body loses pressure, the Torque Converter clutch starts to slip.
It slips enough so that YOU don't feel it, but it generates heat inside the Torque Converter as you are highway driving.
Over a period of miles, this heat builds to the point where the Transmission Oil cooler in your Radiator
can no longer reduce the temperature of the ATX Oil.
This causes the Antifreeze to then start overheating, and this is what you are seeing on your temperature gauge.
I know it sounds hard to believe, but I had to prove it to myself and to my dealer.
If you know a mechanic with a OBD-II Scan tool, have him ride in your car with you, attach the scan tool
and monitor TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature). Normal temperature range is 180F - 210F.
When the engine starts to overheat, read the TFT and the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature).
You won't believe what the TFT reading will be, and you will see that the ECT temperture has risen because of it.
This is the ONLY way that I could prove to my dealer that the transmission was suffering from a very SERIOUS problem.
A problem that does NOT cause the OD or CEL light to flash or illuminate.
Try it out and let me know what the results are that you get...
My TFT reading was 350F, and my ECT was 260F.
This was one week before the tranny finally gave out.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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