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I'm changing plugs... Front bank is done (of course I saved the worst for last  ). I can't get my Magnecors off on the back bank, and I've done a darn good job bloody-ing my knuckles trying. Why the heck are my wires so hard to get off? I put them on while the engine was cold (3 months ago). Any tips on how the heck to get them off? I was thinking about starting up the car, letting them get slightly warm, and quickly pulling them off. Would that help? Of course I'd wait for the engine to cool off before I take the plugs out. Any help or tips would be appreciated.  I'm going to eat some lunch.
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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the day i changed my plugs and wires my engine was hot, but since i didnt care about the4 old wires i just yanked them out w/ plires, and broke a few.
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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You always change the plugs with the engine cold. The engine is aluminium you can strip the threads when it's hot.
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CEG\'er
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Use pliers. Only pull on the boot.
stock 1998 silver frost SVT E0 #1545 out of 6535
* K&N drop-in air filter
* DMD
* Koni's w/ stock springs
* Autolite double platinum
* Tranny cocktail
* Mobil 1 Snyth Oil @ 60K miles
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Originally posted by Contour_LXsport: You always change the plugs with the engine cold. The engine is aluminium you can strip the threads when it's hot.
didnt know that, tahnks. but i was in a rush cause i had to work taht night !
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Derk2000: I'm changing plugs... Front bank is done (of course I saved the worst for last ).
I can't get my Magnecors off on the back bank, and I've done a darn good job bloody-ing my knuckles trying. Why the heck are my wires so hard to get off? I put them on while the engine was cold (3 months ago).
Any tips on how the heck to get them off? I was thinking about starting up the car, letting them get slightly warm, and quickly pulling them off. Would that help?
Of course I'd wait for the engine to cool off before I take the plugs out.
Any help or tips would be appreciated.  I'm going to eat some lunch.
Did you apply dielectric grease to the boots, when you first put them on? On our SE, we did not, not thinking that day, and didn't attempt to remove the wires for quite some time. Needless to say, numbers 1 and 2 wires were stuck. Pulled with a set off pliers, grabbing at the boot, until they came off. Unfortunately, it looked like the centre electrode became damaged on one of the wires, as was noted with a misfire after checking the plugs. Our fault, so no warranty on these wires now. Ended up just putting stock wires back on for now.
Sent them back to Magnecor, and their explanation is that there is moisture down the holes. We say not. I think it is a matter that the rubber boot just gets so darn hot that it welds itself to the spark plug.
Lesson learned, use a good amount of dielectric grease when installing any spark plug wires.
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hmmm...Chris, thanks for the input. I've bought plug wires before (different car), and they came with a little packet of grease. The magnecors didn't and I figured they knew what they were doing... CHIT! Hope I don't damage anything.
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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Thinking again... I can feel the metal connections coming loose, but I just can't break the suction between the plug and the boot.
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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Mine were very, very stuck a couple of years ago, too. I just waited until I pulled off the UIM for cleaning, and even then it was tough. With grease, they came off fairly easily two years later.
-Lance
Lance Kinley
CEG Webmaster
95 SE, "Cassandra"
10 years!
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I've been able to use twisting to alleviate that problem (boot sticking to plug). Most of the time, the boots come out fine...but there is the chance of tearing the boot.
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