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Stazi Offline OP
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Because the V6 in it is frikken tight enough as is! I couldn't imagine anything even slightly bigger in there!

I've been working on my SVT for about a week now, on and off: I dropped an upgraded the trans and I'm installing the Street Flight turbocharger kit.

IT'S A ABSOLUTE BIATCH TO WORK ON!

You need hands of a child that have the strength of Arnold Schwartzy and wrists that bend in any direction as it is, let alone with anything bigger in there!!

What's got me miffed? Two words - EXHAUST MANIFOLDS


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Stazi tell me about it! Now take and multiply that by 3 times as that was how many times we pulled mine! Now i have to re-do some other stuff but at least its on top and the devilish EM's are bolted on to stay!


I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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Get your car up higher and drop your engine a little lower. I had 18inchs from the bottom of the back wheel to the floor.


98CSVT specII yada yada yada 95 Mustang GT M&M road&track box HP stage one 60-mm
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hahaha. I went through the same thing about a month ago. Forget about the alternator. If that ever goes I would rather sell my car than take the rear manifold off again.
later
Steve


1998 SVT #95: Toreador Red - SHM headers, SHM custom tuned chip, K&N Filter, Energy Suspension MM inserts, Cross Drilled Rotors,Redline Tranny Fluid, Custom Billet Aluminum Shift Knob, Edelbrock RPM 5503 resonator,15.441 @ 91.66 mph
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Stazi Offline OP
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It's on a hoist!

The plain truth of the matter is that it''s just too cramped!

Terry knows what he's saying when he says to drop the whole engine and subframe out to do this kind of work!


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi the Aussie:

Terry knows what he's saying when he says to drop the whole engine and subframe out to do this kind of work!




Seriously, why don't you guys drop the subframe when you do serious drivetrain work??? I haven't had occasion to do this on a contour, but being a proud? fiero owner, I have dropped many a fiero engine cradle to make life much easier later. Also, the fiero isn't even as cramped to begin with.

-FD


1995 Contour SE V6 5 spd
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I wouldn't want to own a V8 SHO motor for the life of me unless I had enough money to fix it. If you kill that motor it is 10k to fix. Imagine that. Imagine owing 5k to that car on the loan and it is gonna take 10k to get it back on the road. Its an expensive yamaha motor!

-Jason


Jason 00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l 98' Contour SE with some mods 96 Cavalier (beater)
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I know what you're saying, but I think you are a little confused. The V8 isn't a Yamaha, the old V6 in the older generation SHO's was the Yamaha. The last SHO's had a V8 derivative of our Duratec. But those things have their problems too, including catastrophic failure of the valvetrain...


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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This is the exact reason the optimized gutted exhaust manifolds I've got are still sitting in my garage. Plus the fact that I would have to take the vortech jackshaft out again to do it, which is a production all in itself. I think a subframe lowering is in order when I tackle it. Which also means I probably will wait until something more major needs dealing with first. My clutch has been slipping a bit lately

I hate working on these cars, but just remember the end result is worth it


Simon new- '04 Dodge Dakota 4x4. V8, 5spd FOR SALE Black 98 SVT EO (#2119 of 6535)- SOLD! New project-'88 Ranger 302 swap.
#535039 01/30/03 08:46 PM
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I did my header R&R in around 3 hours total. (2hrs rear, 30 front (maybe), 30 everything else)

Would have been quicker if the upper alternator bolt wasn't put on by some Ford moron using an impact wrench (I broke a ratchet and a socket getting it off ) That took a good 30 minutes alone. I was so pissed!
Mine has the large rear bracket so it had to be moved to get the manifold off.

All I can say is; "I swear by gearwrenches!" ...and I mean REAL ones... Not crappy imitations like the POS fat ones that Craftsman and others make.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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