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Is there any reason I cant buy the mandrel bends and weld this myself?? would it be any different than doing the job with mandrel bends on an svt copied exhuast?? My main question would be crossover pipe if need and flexpipe how much if needed.
thanks
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Basically think 2 of everything.
2 downpipes, 2 flex joints (don't skip these), 2 cats (???), 2 resonators (don't skip these either), 2x the bends of the stock rear section, 2 mufflers (straight through), & 2 tips.
Don't forgot about making/welding in all the hanging points (minimum: 5)
Your 2 real choices for the downpipes are cutting up the stock Y-pipe (gives you the long one, but I would not use the 180 one personally) or getting an aftermarket Y (SHO or BAT - same thing) and cutting it up.
Yes it is "technically" possible to build your own downpipes from mandrel bends but it would take several bends (figure around $50 in bends) and would be very messy and easy to screw up (uneven inside!)
Also you would need to weld on spherical flanges to be able to mount them to the manifolds/headers.
Designing it is extremely simple. It's the fitment that's the hard work. 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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hmm and is it really that much worth it doing true duals vs a 2.5 or 3 inch mandrel svt copied setup on a 3L?? 3 hp isnt worht 300 bucks and trouble to me.
thanks,
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by 96zetec:
hmm and is it really that much worth it doing true duals vs a 2.5 or 3 inch mandrel svt copied setup on a 3L?? 3 hp isnt worht 300 bucks and trouble to me.
thanks,
ANYTHING is worth not running a Y-pipe! (much less 2 of them)
You are right that peak power may only be a handful better. (though remember how hard it is to get gains on this car!) This is very much dependant of how modified you car is.
However the low & mid range powerband on any car will be much stronger thanks to the better exhaust velocity and scavanging effects.
Another thing to think about is if you can build this setup yourself it will still be cheaper than buying any of the pre-built setups!
Heck true duals will be my third major exhaust design on my car and I will have finally spent around $550. (with duals being half of that)
Then factor in I sold off my SS F-body muffler for $75 and have someone wanting my current exhaust for $250 (yes front to back - which is a steal for them) and that's only $225 net.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Yeah I planned on doing it myself, Whats the key in the crossover pipe where should it be placed?? Also when routiung the piping should you place anythign betweent he two pipes to prevent rattling, has anyone had probelms with that??
thanks
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by 96zetec:
hmm and is it really that much worth it doing true duals vs a 2.5 or 3 inch mandrel svt copied setup on a 3L?? 3 hp isnt worht 300 bucks and trouble to me.
thanks,
ANYTHING is worth not running a Y-pipe! (much less 2 of them)
However the low & mid range powerband on any car will be much stronger thanks to the better exhaust velocity and scavanging effects.
Not trying to start a war here or anything, but how are you coming up with the idea that True duals will lead to better scavenging? I can maybe see better exhaust velocities(though that's not proven on our application either), I just don't see the logic behind improved scavenging 
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It's significantly better than a Y-pipe mingling the gasses together and then randomly & abruptly spliting them apart again!
As for why...
The higher velocity would promote better scavaging as the exhaust gasses are getting away from the cylinders faster. This not only allows for less back pressure directly after the cylinders (better engine efficiency), but it has as stronger effect on pulling the following pulses along. (better scavanging)
Then take out the 4 90 degree bends around the tank and you are even further ahead on both counts.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Then take out the 4 90 degree bends around the tank and you are even further ahead on both counts.
Should one be worried about exhaust heat right under the gas tank?? I f not why did Ford do it differently??
thanks
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by 96zetec:
Should one be worried about exhaust heat right under the gas tank?? I f not why did Ford do it differently??
thanks
One should aways worry about such things. Though one particular Cougar has been running like that for nearly 2 years with no problems.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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New CEG\'er
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Better scavenging? What size pipe are you thinking of using? There is a saying to much of a big pipe does not equate to improved HP or torque. Just my .02
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