Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3L rev-ability

I am very curious on doing a 3L swap, and i have been reading about everything, but it seems that no one has addressed about its rev-ability and reliablity. Would i have to change the rods or is the rod-ratios the same as the 2.5L? Does it still rev to 6800 or is it much lower after the swap? Since the strokes might be longer and the 2.5L has a shorter rod ratio and gives more top end power, wouldn't it die quicker as well? Any info would help greatly.

same stroke, different bore, same revability.

reliability is fine....there are several people on here with over 10k miles and have had 0 problems.

different bore? then how would it fit then? you can't mismatch those right? just making sure

Everything is in the same place except the bore is bigger. Make sense?

Actually the 3L engine is even more over square then the 2.5L (which is near exactly square)

This would mean it is actually more "revvable", faster revving and has a broader & higher powerband. Though with the slightly heavier pistons it's basically a wash versus the 2.5L with the same stroke.
The real added bonus is helping to unshroud the valves and better high rpm breathing. (not to mention the 424 or 469 extra cc's )

This is also one of the reasons why I think going hybrid with it's raised CR is more than ideal for a 3L compared to just a straight swap. Leave the straight swaps for the forced induction folks (those cheaters )

Reliability should actually be better than an OEM engine. After all it will be hand built & checked vs assembly line and usually with equal or better components.
Now that "hand built" is only as good as the engine builder's attention to detail. A VERY important point!

I've heard that some scca racers have bumped up their red line on stock internal 2.5L SVT's to 8K with no issues!

But that's what I hear, so I'll take that with a grain of salt. But if it is true, then surely the 3L can reproduce same 8K redline with more durability.

Check the sig - not a single problem with the motor. I drive mine every day, take long highway trips in the heat of summer (at 22 - 24 mpg), do short 1 mile drives to work (never over 3000 RPM when motor is cold), and drag race it every chance I can up to stock SVT redline (withdrawl has set in, I can't wait until March 8). Heck, I even used it for deliveries one day when the NAPA Rangers were getting stuck in snow.

It pretty much sees all the possible conditions a motor can see (good and bad). Just gotta make sure maintanence is kept up, like any motor. DMD (Dual Mode Damper) doesn't hurt either.