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Hey everyone, I've got a 95 contour, v6, automatic, 56k miles and today and yesterday, I noticed some problems with my car. I start it, and the rpm's go all the way to about 2 grand, which it never did before, stays for a few seconds, then comes down to about 1000. When I stop at a light, or a stop sign, the engine surges, as if I were tapping on the gas pedal. It does it when I'm in park, neutral, and drive. It surges, and the rpm's slowly go lower and lower, then if I don't touch the gas, it will stall.

It did it once on sunday after not being driven for three days, then it did it today, several times, and even stalled 4 times on me. It's been really cold here the last week, I'm near NYC, I don't know if that's been affecting it. The car runs fine when I'm doing over 20 mph, but once I get around 10, it sputters.

I really really don't want to have to take it into ford service, or the service station, does this sound like something anyone else has experienced? if so, is it something I can fix myself? I'm pretty handy with stuff, just not cars, so a nice easy explanation would be nice. Thanks for any help you can give.

Pat.

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Welcome to CEG !

First things that come to mind are:
    The IAC might be sticking.
    You may have a vacuum leak.
    The IMRC may not be closing.


The IAC is bolted to the back drivers side of the upper intake manifold. There is a fresh air supply tube with a hose on it, just in front of the IAC and behind the EGR valve, sticking out of the manifold and going to the pleated rubber intake tube. You can spray carb cleaner in the metal tube, or take the IAC off and clean it. The IMRC vacuum pot is below the EGR valve with a linkage going to both sides of the lower intake manifold. The Vacuum pot should be pulled in, and the levers on the manifold rotated clockwise, at idle. They move counterclockwise as the vacuum pot extends, when revving the engine over 3500 rpm. If the linkages do not move they may be stuck, the Vacuum pot may be leaking, or the IMRC vacuum solenoid may be bad.
Other vacuum leaks include the PCV hose and the gaskets under the upper intake manifold.


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Ok, I did some work on it, and I think I figured out what's wrong. I disconnected the battery and left it for 20 minutes, then reconnected it and started it, same problem, so that wasn't it.

Then I disconnected a 4-6 prong plug on the front of the tube that comes in from the air filter, and all of a sudden, all the problems disappeared. I think this is the MAF, it was connected to a metal silver block just after the piece that holds the air filter. Could that be what I need to get replaced? Thanks.

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Unplugging the MAF causes the computer to run in limp home mode with fuel estimated from the TPS.
This only proves it was running lean. The MAF could just be dirty, but that would not happen suddenly. You could clean the MAF, but a vacuum leak seems more likely. Check all vacuum lines and PCV lines. If necessary use carb cleaner to test for leaks. Spraying around a leak will affect idle.


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I think I may have a good answer for you.. this happened to me.. not sure if u have same setup tho. Underneath the throttle body there is a little rod that connects the IMRC runners..the little plastic thingy that held the rod closest to the nose of the car in the hole to control that side of the intakes had come out and the rod was not connected at all.. so I only had one side functioning. God that was a run on sentence.. anyway I may not have all of the terminology right here but you get the picture I hope...luckily I found a guy who had a bunch of parts and hooked me up.. as soon as we put it on it was like a new car!! I couldnt believe it!! its a little difficult to see and get to. Mine had been unhooked for sooo long it had been laying on a metal part and had rubbed it from dull to shiny, from where it had been going back and forth, Mine did the same thing it surged and stalled now and then.. especially with the AC on.. check it out and post back!!

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Originally posted by Pat:
Then I disconnected a 4-6 prong plug on the front of the tube that comes in from the air filter, and all of a sudden, all the problems disappeared. I think this is the MAF, it was connected to a metal silver block just after the piece that holds the air filter. Could that be what I need to get replaced?




As suggested above, surging idles are usually a vacuum pressure problem (vacuum leak or EGR clogged), or a fuel pressure problem.

Before replacing the MAF, you should try to clean it first. You can clean it with electrical parts cleaner (available at your local auto parts store for a buck or two). If you unclip the cover to the air filter box, and look into it, you will see the MAF.

If that doesn't work, then look for vacuum leaks. Check for any loose or cracked hoses, listen for hissing sounds (while the engine is running), and spray carb cleaner around all engine seals and hose connections.


96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
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Originally posted by Pat:
It's been really cold here the last week, I'm near NYC, I don't know if that's been affecting it...

...does this sound like something anyone else has experienced?




There are plenty of people experiencing the same problems, including myself. Mine seems to be a leaking upper intake manifold (UIM) gasket. [FYI: My other car also was having problems lately. I found that there was a hose that was disconnected, and cleaned the MAF. Seems to run great now. ]

You might also want to try and throw a bottle of HEET or ISO-HEET into your gas tank. If there is water in your gas, this will dry it out.


96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil

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