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Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by RoadRunner:
Originally posted by tflork:
not sure what you're saying... are you saying the tube will not be capable of 'sucking' in the fluid? like i should pump it in?
No, the Return line will not suck in the oil.
The Return line doesn't connect to the INLET of the pump.
So there is nothing inside the CD4E to suck in the oil on the return line.
The oil has to be poured into the dipstick tube.
You May be correct ... depends on the type of transmission and where the pump lies. My directions posted elsewhere on the board are from a Ford Explorer forum. Regardless, this can be done safely if the pump in on cooler inlet side of the tranny. Quote:
3. Jiffy Lube has a machine called a T-Tech that completely changes out the fluid - unlike a 4 qt. pan drop - which leaves 14 qts of old fluid. It costs $70, so it is a gamble prior to taking the transmission to the shop you mentioned, but if you did one of these T-Tech change outs prior to going you would know that the problem doesn't stem from dirty fluid causing sticky valves.
My 45RH tranny - at 51,000 miles - shifted noticeably better after the T-tech flush. (Dodge recommends 30,000 mile ATF four quart 'pan-drops' and shortens that to15,000 miles for 'severe service.' Could you be overdue?)
If you don't want to spend the $70 at Jiffy Lube, you can do a "T-tech" imitation for $31 (18 qts @ 1.70/qt of 7176ATF from Walmart)
You'll need a buddy's help, two five gallon buckets and one of those manual transfer pumps. Fill one clean five gallon bucket with 18 quarts of new 7176 ATF. Put the suction hose of the manual transfer pump into this one and plumb the discharge of the pump using an adapter into the return line from the transmission cooler back to the tranny. Let the other transmission cooler line empty in the second five gallon bucket. Have your buddy start up the truck and put it into neutral. As the old fluid comes out, pump in the new ATF at about the same rate. If you fall behind, tell your buddy to turn off the truck until you catch up.
Quote above taken from here
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 150
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 150 |
gotcha.
but mobil1 good for my atx? any other recommendations? this is an old tranny that does not shift smooth anymore, maybe other fluid would be better in this case?
i dunno, any suggestions warmly welcome
Thomas
95 LX v6
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In my reasearch, I have found MANY mentions of NOT flushing if the fluid is already completely broken down (brown in color and STINKS!). For some reason, within 500-5000 miles after a flush with completely burnt fluid, trannies tend to fail. So, "spot" check the fluid first. Get a clean quality white paper towel and set it on top of your UIM. Now, pull up the dipstick and dab 3-5 spots on the towel. If it creates a "bulls eye" with a brownish center, don't flush it. If it creates a uniform pinkish blob, it's safe to flush ... again, this is what I have read, not what I have done.
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any thoughts on what fastcougar said? would that make sense -> new fluid crashing the tranny? i have a pretty good feeling the fluid is way past overdue for a change. as ive said before, when i got the car i took it to a shop and asked them to change the atx fluid. they charged me 40 bucks and changed... 4 quarts. after that i came onto ceg's boards and came across the fact that there's ~12 quarts in the system. nice.
allrite so anyway, i got 94k on my baby. RoadRunner, you seem to know quite a bit about these CD4E's: change or no change?
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There is actually 10.5 quarts of Oil in the CD4E.
Here is my thoughts...
I service my original and replacment transmission at the 30,00 mile interval.
BOTH transmissions failed within 2,000 miles of the service.
Both transmissions worked flawlessly prior to the service.
You have over 94,000 miles on your tranny.
If you are financially prepared to pay for a transmission replacement,
you can take your chances and flush the tranny,
but put the money for the replacement in the bank and don't spend it.
If you don't need the money for a new tranny, it will earn some interest.
If you need the new tranny, your car will drain your bank.
So don't do the flush unless you can afford the possible consequences.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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Originally posted by fastcougar:
You May be correct ... depends on the type of transmission and where the pump lies. My directions posted elsewhere on the board are from a Ford Explorer forum. Regardless, this can be done safely if the pump in on cooler inlet side of the tranny.
Why would you post instructions from a Ford Explorer forum on a Ford Contour forum ?
The only things these two vehicles share are motor oil, antifreeze, gasoline, and unfortunately FORD.
What is good for one vehicle, is not necessarily true for all vehicles.
Our transaxles are lighter duty and get abused more than the heavy duty transmissions in the Explorer.
While we appreciate anyone's knowledge on any service experience, let's try to keep it focused on the Contour.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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Maybe I can clear up a few things.
Automatic transmissions must have a pump in them to generate hydraulic pressure to make the transmission function. This pump will both suck fluid and push fluid.
When you use the hose in a bucket method to flush the trans fluid, you disconnect the upper trans cooler line from the radiator and add an extension and drop it into a bucket. When you start the engine, the pump is functioning and will pump fluid from the trans into the bucket. You don't want to damage anything in the trans from lack of lubrication, so you must also add fluid as it is pumping out. I prefer to add fluid via the dipstick tube. Another similar method some have used is to simply connect another hose to the cooler where the first hose was disconnected and drop this second hose into another bucket with fresh trans fluid. The pump will suck new fluid out of this supply bucket as it pumps old fluid into the waste bucket. I don't care for this method as I feel that it is harder to control, but it does work and some prefer it.
It is a very rare thing to flush a trans and cause problems from flushing it. There just about had to have been a problem first. It is unwise to do a trans flush without first road testing the operation of the trans. I have flushed many with fluid that was darker than old motor oil and not had any problem from it.
Anyway guys, keep arguing if you wish. This is just my observations based on my own experience.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by RoadRunner:
Why would you post instructions from a Ford Explorer forum on a Ford Contour forum ?
The only things these two vehicles share are motor oil, antifreeze, gasoline, and unfortunately FORD.
What is good for one vehicle, is not necessarily true for all vehicles.
Our transaxles are lighter duty and get abused more than the heavy duty transmissions in the Explorer.
While we appreciate anyone's knowledge on any service experience, let's try to keep it focused on the Contour.
I'm not even going to start to try and explain to you that automotive principles apply to ALL makes/models with few difference. Almost all Cars have pistons, connecting rods, crank shafts, etc. Does that mean that someone that rebuilds Buick Grand Nationals can't give his/her advice when it comes to pulling a Contour engine from it's bay? 
I will be doing this on Sunday if the weather cooperates. I will be glad to keep the results to myself if you would prefer 
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Oh Oh ... damn, it's not a Contour. Does FWD count? Bite Me!
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RoadRunner did you ever have one of your three ATXs power flushed by a machine at a lube shop like Jiffy Lube before?
Also are seals within an ATX kept closed or sealed by grime and so when that grime is removed leaks can occur or when removing that grime clogs can form because the flush was not complete or when the grime was released the pieces were too large to be removed from ATX and so circulate causing damage?
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