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A very strange thing started happening, After the engine warms up and I ve been driving, after I come to a stop the engine idle will dip down to 400 rpm's and then surge back up. Sometimes a little, sometimes alot. Once during hard breaking the engine died and immediately came back up. All this happens while the clutch is in. I've been getting a CEL recently every once in a while, and then dissapears. As soon as I can get the money together I'll take it in for the CEL, but it's been to Ford for the idle and they say they don't see it. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Autozone will read the codes for free. I think what you have is a bad Oxygen Sensor. If you have the factory warrenty, then they'll change it for free, if not I would defanately pay the 50 bucks and get them to change the 30 dollar O2 sensor.
Mazda 6S, V6, Speed Yellow
5 Speed, Sport package
Bose audio
Painted 'stash and HIDs!
w/Injen 1/4 14.750 @ 94.94
Former car:
99 Contour SE Sport Black MTX V6
SVT plastic...
1/4 - 15.012 @ 90.58
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Find out what the CEL code is before you go replacing shyt,,and Autozones in cali dont read the codes anymore, atleast not in socal they dont. I get mine read at a local oilmax,,they have a smog station and in friends with the manager and the mechanics.Get the codes and come back,,you might just need to clean something.
I drive a Ford, what else do you need to know??
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Originally posted by mmarfan: Autozone will read the codes for free. I think what you have is a bad Oxygen Sensor. If you have the factory warrenty, then they'll change it for free, if not I would defanately pay the 50 bucks and get them to change the 30 dollar O2 sensor.
That's what I'm figuring too, but they don't read codes anymore. As for the warranty, it expired at 75k, this started happening at 75,023.
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It isn't an O2 sensor causing the idle problem. They don't work that way. However, your CEL codes might still point to them as they now have over 75K miles on them.
More likely guesses for the idle problem would be on the intake air side. The possible culprits there include the ISC, the TPS, the MAF, or the ACT or an intermittent vacuum leak.
You can purchase your own OBDII scanner for under $150. Also available is an interface and software package from Alex Pieper for around $120 (less if there is a group buy).
Guess all you want to, but without the CEL codes, you might as well head for the casino.
Steve
PS. It also helps tremendously if you specify your year, engine and transmission.
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Originally posted by projectSHO89: It isn't an O2 sensor causing the idle problem. They don't work that way.
I have to disagree, I had a very simular problem with 2 of my cars (a Sentra and the Contour), and the problem was the O2 sensor. After I changed it my car went to normal idleing. BUT you defanately wanna check it first and make certain.
Mazda 6S, V6, Speed Yellow
5 Speed, Sport package
Bose audio
Painted 'stash and HIDs!
w/Injen 1/4 14.750 @ 94.94
Former car:
99 Contour SE Sport Black MTX V6
SVT plastic...
1/4 - 15.012 @ 90.58
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 252
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 252 |
Originally posted by projectSHO89: It isn't an O2 sensor causing the idle problem. They don't work that way. However, your CEL codes might still point to them as they now have over 75K miles on them.
More likely guesses for the idle problem would be on the intake air side. The possible culprits there include the ISC, the TPS, the MAF, or the ACT or an intermittent vacuum leak.
You can purchase your own OBDII scanner for under $150. Also available is an interface and software package from Alex Pieper for around $120 (less if there is a group buy).
Guess all you want to, but without the CEL codes, you might as well head for the casino.
Steve
PS. It also helps tremendously if you specify your year, engine and transmission.
Look at my name. I have an SVT. 98.5 And you're right,I can only guess. Trouble is I quit work to goto college, and I don't have a spare $150, not yet.
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its most likely the IAC - idle air control. if u have a chiltons manual u can test the IAC with a low-impedance volt meter. if you dont have a chiltons i can post what the readings are supposed to be.
the 3.0L
oval port 3.0L '98 midnight blue se
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I have been having some of the same symptoms... when at temp (180) at a light (clutch in or out) the motor will blip down - up to 1000-1200, fall agian - cycle 1 or 2 x then die. Only after the far is warmed up. I read through the posts and thought it was an IAC...changed that with a Ford part - problem is the same, only does it after warm up, and when you shift the throttle stays at the RPMs it was at wheb you shift... Ideas? I checked the vac hoses on egr and arounf IAC - all appear OK. THX!
98 Black SVT
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I have a 98 SVT and I have the same problem also. With the clutch in during de-acceleration the car wants to die then picks itself back up. Changed the IAC to the revised one and changed Manifold Gaskets but nothing and no CEL codes. Any other ideas.
Last edited by BBContourSVT; 01/29/03 10:05 PM.
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