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Quote:
Originally posted by Big Jim:
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator so it is not usually serviced seperately.

However, RPM related failure at exactly the same speed is nearly always from failure of the alternator rotor. You will need to replace the alternator, or stay under 4500 RPM (just joking).
The part that is almost for sure causing your problem is #6 on your diagram, the rotor. Unless things have changed since the last time I priced individual parts for an alternator, you will be better off getting a rebuilt exchange alternator from a reliable source.

You also need to address the battery. A red light in the built in hydrometer means that the battery is near the end of it's life. You need one anyway, so replace it first and see what happens.


Jim Johnson
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My car eventually needed the new alternator. I have come to the conclusion that the rotor where the brushes come in contact, has become slightly out of shape, making the brushes bounce on and off the contacts as the rev's get high enough. I would recommend getting yourself a motorcraft alternator from ford. I found one for a total of $160, after the core charge. From what I have heard, a new alternator for this car will run you over $300, but if you can find a new one, then go for it... -Nick


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This may sound very simple, but did you check the quality of your serpentine belt?

What if the belt is slipping at higher rpm? Perhaps having a bad battery is causing a high load and the belt may be old and glazed. Check this first, then look at the alternator.

warmonger


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