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OK, I have been installing for curcuit City for four years. The the stereo you got is a good choice, much better than the stock one. You have two options. The guy you talked to is partially right. You have to either bypass the amp with a $15 Metra plug sold at curcuit or most any other Car audio stores. It wires right up in back of the radio. This sometimes works, but is much more prone to blow your radio, because it will be using both amps. We never usually do this in amplified Stangs Contours etc. What we use, and what you should get is a Perepheril Ford AD A Head plug. It is specifically made for this setup. It lowers the signal from the new head unit to counteract the amount of the factory one. You will still be getting your full output of the new radio. I have had this plug in my tour with my Kenwood Excelon radio for years now. Sounds great and I've never had any problems. The plug is $45 and you can get it at Curcuit. Its a little more but its worth it to do it right. It just wires up behind the radio simple and easy. Try That. Hope that helps.


p.s. I will admit, some people at some Curcuit Cities are out to screw you to make a buck, but don't worry I'm one of the good guys he he...


"Contours are the touchstone of the architect"-Le Corbusier 95 Contour SE (RIP..Broken Tranny until I have $$) KKM Intake Kenwood CD player Four Infinity 5x7's MTX Thunder 6500D 3 10in MTX Thunder6000's Schoche cap DEI alarm Neons
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Why not just buy the amp bypass from crutchfield and be done with it. Sorry to sound so blunt, but that's probably the best way to go.


Vinny 2000 T-RED CSVT MODS: 18" REV model 2 ST200 struts/Roush springs CTA intake Pipe/K&N Filter Dtec Heatshield Optimized TB True Duals w/ magnaflow mufflers/resonators
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Originally posted by Pienstars:
Why not just buy the amp bypass from crutchfield and be done with it. Sorry to sound so blunt, but that's probably the best way to go.




Yep, then you can get rid of the extra weight too.


1998 T-Red SVT Contour #2588 of 6535 2005 F-150
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Originally posted by BnyBen:
I'm one of the good guys he he...




Good Guys? I though you said you worked at Circuit City.


95 SE Modded - Gone 98 E0 Black SVT - Gone 98 se sport - Broken 00 T-Red SVT - Nice
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Go to Best Buy (at least in mayfield, ohio;) ). The guy who helped me out with my Pioneer reciever owned a '95 contour, which sounded like he had done some nice stuff to it, tv's etc. He was pretty cool- gave me a $20 gift certificate too. Wonder if he's been to CEG....if you are, thanks man.


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Originally posted by BnyBen:
OK, I have been installing for curcuit City for four years. The the stereo you got is a good choice, much better than the stock one. You have two options. The guy you talked to is partially right. You have to either bypass the amp with a $15 Metra plug sold at curcuit or most any other Car audio stores. It wires right up in back of the radio. This sometimes works, but is much more prone to blow your radio, because it will be using both amps. We never usually do this in amplified Stangs Contours etc. What we use, and what you should get is a Perepheril Ford AD A Head plug. It is specifically made for this setup. It lowers the signal from the new head unit to counteract the amount of the factory one. You will still be getting your full output of the new radio. I have had this plug in my tour with my Kenwood Excelon radio for years now. Sounds great and I've never had any problems. The plug is $45 and you can get it at Curcuit. Its a little more but its worth it to do it right. It just wires up behind the radio simple and easy. Try That. Hope that helps.


p.s. I will admit, some people at some Curcuit Cities are out to screw you to make a buck, but don't worry I'm one of the good guys he he...




Bynben, you're partially right. There are three ways to wire an aftermarket stereo to the Contour w/factory amp:

(1) "Regular Harness" - This method sends the amplified signal from the aftermarket unit into the factory amp. It will sound like poo, and can shorten the life of the factory amp. Most BB/CC installers incorrectly install the stereo in this manner because they are unaware of the factory amp or just don't care.

(2) "Factory Amp Integration Harness" - This method converts the amplified signal from the aftermarket HU into a pre-amp level signal. The factory amp then reamplifies the signal. This is the $45 harness/converter you're referring to. I wouldn't recommend using this if you're after the best possible sound. Just about any decent aftermarket HU will have an internal amp that is light years better than the Ford factory amp in both power output and distortion.

(3) "Bypass Harness" - This method uses a harness which completely eliminates the Ford factory amp. The amplified signal from the aftermarket HU goes directly to the speakers. This is THE method to use for best performance. Everyone, myself included, who has used this method has reported a significant improvement over methods #1 and #2. There have been at least 20-25 posts reporting significant improvement over the last few years. The only reliable source for this harness has been Crutchfield, although people have found other sources too.


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4
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Hey man. I want the bypass harness. email your info and i'lll send you a self addressed stamped envelope. My email is in my signature.


Irfan Rahim irfman2000@yahoo.com 2006 Blue Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V Former owner of a silver 2000 Contour SE Sport ATX
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The easiest and cheapest thing to do is wire around the factory amp yourself. It's easy as can be. I did it didn't take long and cost probabley about 5bucks.


....Brad Your mom thinks I'm hot!! But my wife rocks!! 99 Mestique Zetec ATX, 96 4Runner 5speed Mods? Um gotem. VFA-94VFA-122 VFA-115
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he could do it himself but with the harness he would know for sure that it all got wired right. Personally I wouldnt mind just ripping all the damn wiring out stupid ford super wraping it all in tape grrrrrrrr And how in the f... do you even get to the goles that go from the interior into the doors(without ripping out the dash)?!?!?!?! I wanted to run heavier wire for my component speakers but oh well. Right now its all about the new interior I am putting in

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