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Originally posted by warmonger:
Try to get a resistance reading of the sensor so that you can compare the resistance when cold with the resistance when its hot. Just unplug the wire and measure the sensor directly.
Also, I think there is one sensor the dash temp gauge and one for the pcm. I though the dash temp gauge was one wire where the pcm sensor was two-wire.
Anyone else jump in here for verification?
If not I will try to look today.
warmonger
Your correct on that, at least the one wire is for the dash guage.
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Also as a rule of thumb, the IAT (Intake Air Temp), and the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensors are based on the same resistances. So when totally cold (at ambient temp), the 2 sensors should produce pretty close to the same resistances. And the graph on the first link below, shows what the exact warm readings should be. Here are a couple links that talk about IAT and ECT test values and stuff: Test values: http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/Sensors.htmGo EXACTLY 1/2 way down on this page: http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/eecv.htm
'95 CONTOUR SE
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Ok, read the wrong sensor then.. the diagram that I have isn't real specific on it and you are right there are two down there. I will read the correct one tonight and go from there. Also, how much coolant should the system suck down? I have a little over 8 quarts that went right in.. but that is about it.
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Originally posted by SVT_Nate:
Ok, read the wrong sensor then.. the diagram that I have isn't real specific on it and you are right there are two down there. I will read the correct one tonight and go from there. Also, how much coolant should the system suck down? I have a little over 8 quarts that went right in.. but that is about it.
There will be air in the system. Not all that much you can do about it utill you drive it. U could, if can lift the front end up in the air or the same with the rear. Trying to work some of the air out. It took me an hour of driving to work it all out. Had to stop a few times because it was getting to hot for my taste. I can't really remember all that much but I think I put near 3 gallons in the system? Don't quote me on that tho.
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Went over and looked at the car again tonight. I can't get a reading on the ECT sensor because of an aftermarket oil presure sending unit that sits there. However, I did notice that if I push on the line that comes directly out of it (coolant line) again and again the AF gauge rises up and down.. up to where it should be then back down when I let off.. I have tried every trick that I know to get coolant in the system... just can't get any more than 8 quarts in it... and that's with the overflow being almost completely full.
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Originally posted by SVT_Nate:
Went over and looked at the car again tonight. I can't get a reading on the ECT sensor because of an aftermarket oil presure sending unit that sits there. However, I did notice that if I push on the line that comes directly out of it (coolant line) again and again the AF gauge rises up and down.. up to where it should be then back down when I let off.. I have tried every trick that I know to get coolant in the system... just can't get any more than 8 quarts in it... and that's with the overflow being almost completely full.
When I work on cars, I always take off 1 or more hoses in key locations to act as airbleeds to burp out the water from the other end as I'm filling the reservour. This always works for me. I can't remember exactly of the specific hose configuration on the Contour right this sec, so I couldn't recommend which particular hose to crack open, but I usually shoot for a hose that is on the engine-side of the thermostat, and is at the highest possible point. Sometimes even a heater hose is good to use (the inlet hose of heater core), or even sometimes a TB spacer de-icer hose, as an air bleed? You just have to judge which would be good to use as a bleed (if any accesible)
'95 CONTOUR SE
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- Audi Xenon Projector Retrofit
-Mp3 deck, dual 10s
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Were you guys sure to compare the water passages on the 2.5L head gasket with the passages on the 3L head gasket? I know some drilling was required for me to get the exact same water passages opened up when I used the 3L head gaskets. Perhaps due to the way the 2.5 and 3L pumps flow water into the block they are different for a reason?
warmonger
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yeah, compaired them all from the 2.5 vs 3.0 gaskets to match them. There was 2 on each head I believe. Might have been more don't recall. I will be looking it over more tomorrow night. I still can't get the coolant to flow right. I am going to look into the radiator tomorrow, fluid doesn't seem to be either reaching the bottom of it or flowing properly from it through the block.
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Maybe you should re-check the water pump while you are at it.
warmonger
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Yeah, planning on it. There is definitly something strange going on there. And I am almost positive that once coolant starts to flow the other issues will go on their own. I took the hose off of fitting directly in front of the ECT sensor and it was almost bone dry.
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