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Finished installing my 3L hybrid tonight. Fired up just fine, oil pressure came up and all was well... until it warmed up. After that, I noticed that it was running really lean and with a slight Ping. Shortly there after the car stalled out and would not start until cooling down. Compression checks fine, the car just won't hold an idle when hot. Any Ideas? I've checked the EGR valve and it tests fine, checked the IAC Sensor and it seems to be ok. All vacuum lines were also checked. Other than this the car is awesome.

-Nate
98.5 SVT
3L Hybrid

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Are you using the 2.5's original MAF, ECT, and IAT ???


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Yes, the original SVT MAF, ECT, and IAT. The car also isn't throwing and CEL's. I'm guessing the lean condition from the A/F gauge that I have which at idle is barely registering.

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List your full set up, injectors, plugs, manifolds used, mods performed, etc... At least we'd have some sort of starting point for diagnosing a car over the internet...


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Sorry, My bad on that one.. here is the run down..

SVT heads with stock 19pound injectors (return Style)
2000 3L bottom end
Fidanza Flywheel
Grizzly Clutch
NGK Super Copper Plugs (1 step colder)
Weapon-R intake
All Cats Removed (Stock 2.5 SVT exhaust)
Stock MAF
Stock SVT TB
Magnacore 9MM Wires
NOS EFI kit

That should help...

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Originally posted by SVT_Nate:
Sorry, My bad on that one.. here is the run down..

SVT heads with stock 19pound injectors (return Style)
2000 3L bottom end
Fidanza Flywheel
Grizzly Clutch
NGK Super Copper Plugs (1 step colder)
Weapon-R intake
All Cats Removed (Stock 2.5 SVT exhaust)
Stock MAF
Stock SVT TB
Magnacore 9MM Wires
NOS EFI kit

That should help...





My car (with stock SVT MAF, FI, etc.) started right up and ran perfectly fine when it was first built. Best to hook up an OBD-II scanner and start checking values to be sure everything is working.

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Two or three questions:

When you say no start, do you mean it cranked over but wouldn't fire?

When you say lean, how do you know this? If you are monitoring the A/F using an obd system via the stock O2 sensors then it will not give accurate results. By this I mean it could be lean but you don't have an easy way to know how lean it is whether it is dangerously lean or not.

What is the NOS EFI kit, a nitrous kit?

If it is a nitrous kit you need to probably make sure it is sealing around the nitrous injector/s so that it isn't drawing in unmetered air. Also, I would disable all your aftermarket stuff until you have the car working ok on the stock injection system. Pinging can be caused by low octane fuel so put some octane booster in it.
Don't forget to check/replace the fuel filter as well.

warmonger


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The higher compression will require more octane to prevent ping, but octane booster is not the way to go IMHO.

I would monitor the ECT with a meter during warmup. It may actually be getting progressively richer till it stalls.
IIRC 5v = -40 deg, 0v = 250 deg.


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It cranks over but will not start, acts as though it's flooded. Lean is just a guess really, I do have an aftermarket AF gauge however, it reads from the O2 sensor and is reading VERY lean as were before the swap was reading perfect (as in right between rich and lean). Yes, it is a Nitrous Kit however being an EFI kit, it is a dry kit which uses a solenoid to up fuel pressure and only shoots Nitrous into the throttle body. The fuel filter I have replaced and the car has 93 Octane in the tank.

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With the ECT what should I see when monitoring it? As in what is normal for it to run?

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