Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting death of a tranny

...so im on the freeway about 15mins from my destination at about 2pm monday...i click the atx outta overdrive and downshift (more throttle) to pass a car and change lanes....a bump and nothing...just high rpm's but no real pulling power....i got off the gas and the car kept moving fairly well so i kept goin to my destination....however, i notice that my car seemingly will not go back into overdrive and was turning over 4k rpm's at @ 70mph or so...i manange to limp it home and i can smell burning tranny fluid....i checked the level and then drove it around the block to see if its better or maybe the overdrive had just glitched on me or something....no dice

car pulls fine from a dead stop in first, but wont shift no matter how slow im driving before 3500 rpm...and has no pulling power above that

does not pull strongly in 2nd (rpms drop low after shifting from 1st) and then the car doesnt seem to shift into 3rd or i dont notice it....i just notice how hard the engine was working at 70.....i nursed it down to the local ford dealer where i stood totally ignored for maybe 10-15 mins on their service drive eventhough i was the only customer there at the time....then the service guy kissed me arse left and right after some guy i guess with power went into the service booth and got someone to help me...the service guy made all kinda excuses and appologies about being on the phone (as if he couldn't at least tell me that when i was inside standing right next to him...several other service guys walked by me the way sasquatch is seen walking on all those old fake videos)

anyway....i have a warranty and eventhough he said the company was a pain in the ass they could get things taken care of with them....i just have to wait for an inspector to come out and look at the car....they are also gonna look into my intermittent coolant leak (pressure test) and fix a couple of recalls

i really wanted to have the funds available to get a shift kit by the time my atx inevitably died but right now i'll just be happy to get my car back with a shiny new tranny....pretty much means the kit is out though since im not gonna pay to have the thing opened up after this

and pray my warranty covers this or the dealer warned me the new tranny is like 2600!!!!!!!

(wonder what type of bus pass goes with my new nikes..... :rolleyes: )

Just remember, you are not going to be getting a new transmission; just a rebuilt, different one. Rebuilds, because the don't have new "hard parts", won't last as long as the original trans. Try to find out what failed on your old trans, and if bits and pieces wound up in the fluid. If they did the cooler has to be flushed super clean, or the new one will die in short order. It safer to have the cooler in the radiator bypassed and B&M trans cooler put in. After 6 months I would get the trans flushed with synthetic ATF put in.
Rebuilts usually are only warranted for 1 yr/12k mi. If you want it to last longer than that, you have to do a lot of preventive maintenance.

I disagree that a rebuild can't/won't last as long as a new one.

For instance, if the part that cause the failure in the original transmission has improved, then when that part is installed in a rebuilt transmission, the rebuilt unit can last longer than the original.

Since a great deal of the cost of rebuilding is labor, your best bet is to replace just about everything that wears in your rebuilt unit. It won't cost that much more relative to the labor to remove and replace the transmission.

TB

AMEN!

Quit with the chicken little stuff.

thanks for the info guys.....i didn't know or actually didn't think that the dealer would use a rebuilt tranny (i'll ask next time the service dude calls) how the bejesus can they charge 2600 for a used/rebuilt transmission!?! what a joke

i'll remember to ask about the flush and so on as well...i know now that the transmission was on its way out for about a week or more that i could notice....it would clunk often times when clicking out of overdrive...the atx was pretty much flawless when i first bought the car

service dude chris called me about an hour ago to tell me that 2nd and 4th gears were gone and that they were running the pressure test on the cooling system

man my warranty covers almost nothing while adding 1500 to the price of the car when i bought it....lets hope they'll cover this

looks like i'll still be footing the bill for another drop and a shift kit install afterall at some point

wanted to add a funny (maybe not) story about the service guy yesterday...

while he's putting in all my info into the pc and checking for recalls etc... he looks at me and asks 'have u been in here before with a different car? seems like i remember u, u look really familiar'

well he knows i've been in before because he just got through pulling up my name and my mothers (bought 87 taurusaurus new from them 15k cash, and been in over the yrs for service on it and a recall fix on her 2000 taurus and i was with her then)

but what he really remembered me from was back in may 2001 after i bought my contour

i went in to get a list of recalls (OASIS i found out) and he was the guy who assisted me....he was very nice in the beginning all those months ago but when i asked him about specific recalls for teh fuel filler neck problem HE BACAME AN ASS!!!!

"EVERYTHINGS ON THE PAPER I GAVE U" in his best 'im done with you, be gone!!!' voice

i knew his ugly mug the moment i saw him yesterday but i said nothing about that although after having him ignore me when i was standing right next to his desk several minutes before he had to kiss my ass i wanted to choke him!!!

oh well if he gets my car fixed for 300 or less outta my pocket (100 dollar deductible) we're even

EVEN IF HE IS A CORNHOLE

A transmission swap on an MTX Contique is billed as a 10 hour job, at 99 bucks an hour (at least out here in cali) so there you go, a thousand bucks right there. I would assume an ATX is more time-consuming, but don't know for sure.

When I had my Galant, I had that same type of warranty that made an inspector come out. When the engine failed, the inspector approved a rebuilt one, but I wanted a new one so I paid the difference ($600 bucks) for a new one...you might have the same option. Be sure to ask!

Good luck,

Matt

thanks svt...i'll check into that (paying the difference) when i talk to cornholio the service guy tomorrow

brucer, you meant 'remanufactured'. Those pieces are actually changed. Rebuilt items are fine if there are no other problems besides the obvious cause of 1st failure (statistics would say not good I think). Salvaged parts can be the best finds parts-wise short of remanuf's. You don't have to worry about an OEM 'one outta ten' failure esp. if it's a chronic problem design-wise. Just ranting, correct me if I'm off.... Man, I hope that atx gets done under warranty! My fingers are crossed for ya. Good luck.

If one looks at what is included in a rebuild kit they'll see things like: gaskets, seals, clutch plates, bands, etc. These are consumable items. Things like gears are not replaced even though they will have wear. As you can see from what I pasted in there are a lot of things that have to be checked an assembled very carefully. The quality of rebuilds can vary greatly. There is a reason why they don't have the same length warranty as the new one that came in the car.

The following is from www.transonline.com for our transmission:

Rebuild Checklist

Teardown


Remove bell housing 1st (Pump comes out last) & be careful not to bend up the chain lube tube.

Check chain for strech before removing from case.

Chain & sprockets are plenty heavy. Easiest way to remove is grab chain in middle and lift up.

No need to remove manual linkage, just pop linkage rod off on both ends.

You have to remove the lube ring on the Forward/Direct drum in order to remove the snap ring for the forward piston.

Oil filter is a real pain to remove from main case. Collapse the large metal clad seal then remove with seal puller.

If you find a cone shaped filter laying on the bench after teardown, it goes in the forward clutch feed hole in the case. Filter was used 1994 & 1995 ONLY and is not necessary to re-insatll if bad.


Pump

Inspect pump pocket & gears for wear.

Check bushing journal surface on stator for scorring.

Check down length of pump driveshaft & make sure it's not twisted like a barber pole. Also, check both ends for wear. 4 cyl. is PN F4RZ-7B328-C. V6 is PN F4RZ-7B328-B.
If you're going to replace pump shaft with good used, make sure it's the correct one. 4 cyl is 14'' long, while V6 is 14 11/16''. 4 cyl installed in V6 = NO MOVE!


This is a very small capacity pump. That means, clearances MUST be Perfect!

Gear Side Clearance - .001'' to .002''

Outer Gear to Body - .006'' MAX


Make sure you check the clearance in between end of TSS (Turbine Speed Sensor) & the lugs on the reverse clutch hub.

Early pump loves to blow the edge of the gasket out, which sets code 628 or PO721 (TCC Slippage) and causes OD off lite to flash. Redesigned late pump eliminates this complaint. If Early pump is BAD replace with Late style - PN F7RZ-7A103-AA.

No need to update to late pump if early is good. Instead, just use late pump plate & gasket - PN F7RZ-7A142-AA.

Pump halves are always warped and cross leak real bad. Flat sand body and stator until they are perfectly FLAT!

Use a drill bit to countersink the pump bolt holes.

Make sure you install the correct pump gasket. Late has a WHITE I.D. stripe on it.

Pump plate and gasket must be assembled with line up pins. Use 2 E4OD case studs.

Torque pump to 10 ft. lbs. Max & wet air test with ATF to verify there are NO cross leaks.


Clutch Drums


Check pressure plate snap ring groove for cracks in Forward/Direct drum. Forward side likes to crack the most.

Inspect weld in Forward/Direct drum for leaks/cracks. Use 604 accumulator piston as a leak test plug.

Many of these drums were produced with BAD sealing ring bores right from NEW. where the Teflon rings ride & you will see little dents in the bore caused by the chuck that holds the drum for machining. Eventually this causes the Teflon rings to fail = clutch failure.

If Forward/Direct drum is bad & must be replaced make sure you are installing the correct one. There are 5 different drums. 3 of the drums fit 1994 to mid 1998, while there are


2 different drums for 1998 1/2 & Up
Early 4 cyl. Forward/Direct drum uses .118'' FAT direct steels. All other drums use .078'' THIN direct steels. However, .078'' steels will work in Early 4 cyl. drum if you use 1 or 2 forward steels.


ALL V6 engines use 4 frictions in Direct. NEVER use a 3 friction direct (4 cyl. drum) in place of a 4 fricton!

Always replace the Molded rubber pistons.

Reverse clutch hub must be lined up with LUBE oil holes in forward/direct drum or you'll wipe out the reverse input drum bushing.

Black 4 tang plastic washer that sits on top of direct return spring is almost always found broke. Make sure you stock some - PN F3RZ-7G116A.


Sprags


Input sprag races must be perfect.

Check leading edge of input sprag element for wear. NO more than 1/16'' allowed. More than 60 thousand miles replace it

On 1994 - 97 input sprags the SHORTER or THINNER of the 2 end cap washers sits on top of the 4 tang washer.

Low roller likes to fail more than input sprag. Pull it apart & look all parts over for wear.
Sand sprag races with 80 - 100 grit.


Sprag Rotation

Low Sprag - Inner race turns RIGHT, locks left.

Input Sprag - Sun gear turns RIGHT, locks left


Valve Body & Solenoid Block


Worn Pressure Regulator VB bore is # 1 reason for cracked welds, broken parts & blown out pump gasket. Always check PR valve for scuffing and bore for wear.

Just like PR bore the TCC bore also loves to wear out. If you have code 628 or PO741 (TCC Slippage) and can't get rid of it than for sure this bore is worn out.
DO NOT pin TCC regulator valve to try and fix Code 628/P0741. Pinning valve solid will cause LU plate to distort big time & DECREASE cooler flow!!!!


Another common area of VB wear is the accumulator bores. Look the walls over carefully for damage.
Don't sweat it if you take the VB apart and can't find any check balls or orifices - CD4E's don't use any!

Don't forget to replace gasket under air test plate.


VB halves must be assembled with line up pins. If you have line up pins for AXOD VB then just use the 2 longest pins in the set.


5 different length bolts are used to hold VB halves together. Long bolts in place of short hold halves apart and cause cross leaks.


If you have to re-use the solenoid screen make sure it'd super clean. Dirty screen causes all kinds of shift complaints.

Check solenoids for opens or shorts.

If solenoid block is bad & needs to be replaced make sure you install correct one. Early uses 1-2 Ohm TCC solenoid while Late has 12 - 19 Ohm TCC solenoid. Late Style with TAN colored connector (PN F6RZ-7G391-A) will work in any year vehicle.

Check EPC & 3-2 solenoid snouts & there bores for wear.

Shift & TCC solenoids have o-rings located underneath them. Make sure you replace them.

Don't screw up and install solenoid gasket backwards = NO upshift & delayed reverse.

2-4 Band & Servo


2 different bands. V6 is wider than 4 cyl & is marked V6.
OK to use V6 in place of 4 cyl. band but never use narrower 4 cyl band in V6!


Always replace molded rubber servo and cover. There's an Early & a Late style servo but both are interchangable.

Use old cover to make a servo adjustment checking tool.
2-4 band adjustment must be 1/16'' to 1/8'' MAX

Case Halves & Chain


Always stone case halves until there FLAT, FLAT, FLAT!

Install case gasket BONE DRY - NO sealer of any type.
Torque halves to 18 ft. lbs and work from the middle out. Impact wrench can squish gasket out = LEAKS.


Always remove differential lube tube from main case & replace seals.

Maximum allowable chain strech is 5 1/2''. 3 different chains depending on engine size and sprocket ratio.


Electrical


Always replace MLPS/Range Selector - PN F8RZ-7F293-AA . Just like E4OD & AODE it has a very high failure rate.

Check TSS (Turbine Speed Sensor) for opens or shorts. Must read between 140 - 290 Ohms. PN is F3RZ-7M101-A.


Assembly


Band MUST be installed into case 1st than pump.
Use the E4OD case studs (that you used to line up the pump halves) to install pump.


Clean magnet on chain gaurd real good.

Install oil filter into case & be careful not to crack filter neck when you drive seal into place.

Don't forget chain gaurd.

Low roller installs with groove and step facing UP towards you.
Don't forget to install Dish plate on top of Low roller.

After Low/Rev. clutch is in place you must install linkage.


Install solenoid case plug into bore in case 1st than bolt VB to case.