Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Don't EVER leave you brakes on for 40,000 miles!

That's why I have a 5 pound short-handled sledge I'll be checking the brakes this spring when it's warm enough to actually work on the car and mic the rotors at that time, and if they need replacement I'm going to hit them with PB Blaster every day for a week before I try to remove them.

It's a shame Ford didn't design in a threaded hole or two into the rotor to assist in breaking them free from the hub. My old Saab 9000 had that, which was really nice. Thread in 2 appropriately-sized bolts and crank on them alternating until the rotor pops free.

Scott

Trust me, I was putting more than 5lbs of force onto the rotors, try 100lbs, as hard as I was swinging.

In any case if you think you will need rotors in the spring, and can swing it now, get in on my GB so you can save some money on the parts.

I got you all beat 156K on my Del Sol. I got it with 57K and put pads on it at that time. Still stops OK and the rotors are still there not wearing much at all. I also put that mileage on in about 3 years though. Hey Stazzi if you think that was bad at my work we have to torque bolts down really hard. Uaually we go to the yield point of the bolt, but most of them we don't get anywhere near that. We usually settle on 2,000-3,000 FT-LBS, that's with a hydraulic torque wrench!! And for the smaller bolts we have a 4' 750 FT-LB torque wrench. The worst thing is we use loctite and sealant on a majority on our hydralic fittings. We break fittings off sometimes because the sealant locks them in so well There is nothing like hanging off the end of a 6' cheater bar and SNAP Broken fitting, broken socket/adapter, or just the fitting breaking loose. I feel your pain I just do it Damn near every single day!!!!

I did the first front/rear break job on my 2000 SVT this weekend and the roters cam off with no problem. There was NO rust between the roter hat and the hub. I did notice that there was some white grease lithium?(sp).

This is what i replaced it with the tce kit.

ThinkMoto
What are bolting together a bridge???????? Oh I know it's a cheese-head thing? Good friend of mine (orginally from Appleton)comes up with strange ideas ,too.
Course he was also blown out of the water in Nam (Purple Heart)Navy riverine.
Oh your re-building boats up in Sturgeon Bay? Right
Paul

I'm a millwright apprentice(2 months to go on apprenticeship) i work on German fineblanking presses. The company I work for is the largest fineblanking parts producing company in North America. And we are in the top 5 or higher in the world. But, we lost are Q1 status with Ford so we're in big trouble right now. The presses are big but the hydraulic systems are nuts. Some regularly run upwards to 300 bar(5000psi).....

That is a nice setup, if you can afford it?

I preferred to optimise the brakes I have and dropped a Turbo on instead!

People used to laugh at me when I used to rave about PB Blaster, but it is the best pentrating oil on the market!

PS you probably should ahve tried to use a torch to warm them up. That usually helps them come off too!


-Andy

I guess it just depends on how much you drive it.

I change the brakes on the Buick every fall. New rotors every other fall.

My KVR cross drilled were on the Buick for close to 55K+ and came off without drama. (Replaced the pads with a second set of the Bendix TitaniuMetalic, BTW.)

I took the drums off as well last fall. At over 110K, probably closer to 115K. I suspect this was the first time the drums were off the car. I'd say 50% of the lining was still on the shoes, so I sprayed in the cleaner and put the drums back on.

TB
All measurements in miles.

um... I just recently replaced my rear rotors at around 95k. They were the original rotors and had not been machined but were worn down so the pads were running in a big slot about 1/8 an inch deep all around the rotor. Made for some warpy brakage I wrong word you not.