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#522318 01/16/03 05:47 AM
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Thanks for the links!


'95 GL White I've got mods.
#522319 01/16/03 06:42 PM
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I've had the intrax for over a year on the stock struts. I replaced the front struts when I did the springs cause the nut on the top of the strut was stripped. I can tell you that the springs I got were 1 7/8th drop front/rear. The ride is alittle more harsh on dumpy roads. I would not recomend the springs if the roads are really bad. the final drop after setting was a hair over 2 inches. The struts are now destroyed and my car sits almost 2 1/2 inches lower than stock now. When I first got the springs I could notice alittle improvment in cornering and the nose doesn't dive as much. I would recomend getting aftermarket struts,they would last longer and save more money in the long run. I would ask eibach or roush owners what they think about those springs. I liked my springs at first but now I need somthing designed more for the track.


98 SE Sport. custom catback, Intrax springs, 3L, 3L valves, APEXi S-AFC, 24# injectors. Other cars: 72 Challenger 360 motor 727 trans (used for parts) 73 Challenger 340 motor 727 trans 15.60 1/4 with bad miss and clogged fuel filter.
#522320 01/16/03 06:53 PM
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Originally posted by Pascal:
Intrax springs are linear for most of their applications, whereas Eibach and H&R applications for the CDW27 chassis are progressive. If people around here prefer a progressive spring it's fine.. I for one prefer linear springs, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.




not to sound like a dumba$$, but what do you mean by linear and progressive?


"What did you think about that Dorothy girl?" "The whole Judy Garland thing kinda turned me on. That doesn't make me some sort of fag does it? "Nah baby, your money." 98 Black SVT #3560 of 6535
#522321 01/16/03 07:26 PM
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Originally posted by cliffjohnson:
not to sound like a dumba$$, but what do you mean by linear and progressive?



Hey, never hurts to ask.

Progressive rate = The rate goes up as the spring gets compressed. This means it might take 150lb to compress the first inch, then 200lb additional for the next inch, and 300lb additional for a third inch. Grand total 650lb of pressure before 3" of compression travel is attained. Those springs usually have an uneven coil separation when you look at them... more spaced at the top and tighter at the bottom, or vice-versa.

Linear rate = The rate is constant through the whole compression stroke. First inch could take 200lb, and it's gonna take increments of exactly 200lb for every other inch of compression you're adding. Those springs are usually wound in an evenly spaced manner.

What this means in the real world is that a progressive rate spring will easily compress itself to soak up road irregularities and small bumps. Then it doesn't need too much damping to be controlled and the ride stays comfortable. When you corner (lean) or hit a big bump then the soft portion of the spring gets compressed and the stronger portion "catches" the car. It's more of a "road" setup. A linear rate spring on the street will need a LOT more damping otherwise it'll feel harsh. But you don't have to "lean" the car in forever before getting into the stiff stuff. They're also better to control brake dive and acceleration squat.

BTW.. most people don't think about their tires when they "review" a suspension.. They make more of a difference that you think. A 15" wheel with a nice all-season tire will absorb road irregularities and minor bumps.. but it bounces back so they work well with a soft suspension to control the bouncyness... Ever seen a CASE backo driving down the street?? Bouncy tires, NO suspension... That's akin to fat tires and a stiff suspension. Baaad.

Opposite goes for thin and stiff sidewalls. Slap a set of 18's on a stock suspension and the rolling stock sends sharp jolts that the dampers can't control. The car feels harsh and rough. Add better dampers though, and then it comes into its own.

The whole car is a system.. try and set a goal for what dynamics you're after, and make sure the parts you slowly add are helping toward attaining the goal, and not counter-acting each other.

..the goal might be looks with no regard to performance, and that would be fine too. Then you can run slammed ground controls on stock struts and shrug off the comments from those of us who track our cars. It gets very personal.

This is turning into a lesson.. Happy motoring everyone.

#522322 01/16/03 08:13 PM
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FYI!

I believe Eibach, Intrax, H&R, and Rousch are all Prograssive rate springs!

Coilovers are usually Linear rate springs! Mine are!

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
#522323 01/16/03 09:08 PM
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The BAT springs that come with the BAT kit are progressive as well correct??

#522324 01/16/03 10:09 PM
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Damn Pascal. That sure was very informative. Thanks.
I better understand my suspension now.

Bernie

#522325 01/16/03 10:29 PM
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Andy,

You are correct, except that the Roush fronts are linear, while the rears are prog.

Race springs do not need to compromise for comfort, and linear springs are easier to tune. So, yup, most real race setups are linear and hard-as-a-rock.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
#522326 01/17/03 12:41 AM
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All I've heard were that they were not all that great. But this is hear say.. To each is own.


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#522327 01/17/03 01:15 AM
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Originally posted by lilbern:
Damn Pascal. That sure was very informative. Thanks.
I better understand my suspension now.

Bernie




Ditto


-Ken V. 1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX psycho_bass@hotmail.com Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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