Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Door Check Straps

OK, after failing to turn up anything in searching, time to turn to the wisdom of the group......
I haven't taken the door panel off, so could someone explain to me what I must do in order to have my rear doors open with the same effort as the front doors?
I have lubed them, before now dry door check straps, and this did not improve matters.
I just purchased this '95 Contour for my wife's Xmas present and am in the process of doing the bumper to bumper thing myself.
Any wisdom shed this way greatly appreciated.
tia - Bill

what kinda lube did ya use?

Used AGS Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant. It is in a tube, available from Napa as well as other stores, in a paste form contains silicon. I have used it for door check straps on Taurus', Jetta's, etc. Works nicely for brake caliper slider pins.
Did not make one difference in my Contour's rear doors. Does anyone know how these check straps operate internally within the door?
tia - Bill

while im not familiar with the term 'check strap' i have noticed a grinding kind of feeling with my rear doors...one nite i went lubing around the car the wd40 and when i got to the rear doors and inspected them i found that the metal bar or bracket going from the door into the body of the car seems to drag on the metal of the body...happens on both sides...the wd40 made it somewhat better but its still there...seems to be a design problem from our pals at ford

i have no idea if thats what u're talking about but its something i noticed onthe rear doors of my car

Hey, this fits what I am feeling (not really , very tired at the moment) as well as trying to describe!! The bi-focals prevented me from getting a good view of the "strap" as it entered the door, I think you are on to something there....if it responds the to the 'fish oil" (WD-40), then you are correct. Question though: why the lower mileage rear doors instead of the higher mileage front doors?
tia - Bill

Well here's a few thoughts/comments for your consideration.

First, being a member of the bi-focal crowd, I find it best for repair work to get a pair of cheap "granny-style" non-prescription reading glasses and move them up to the bridge of your nose. That way when your head is sideways you get the proper magnification and a full field of view. Bi-focals only good when head is vertical.

I too was unfamiliar with the term "check strap" as I had always known these devices as "hill-holders". Interesting that my '98 Ford service cd does use the term "check strap" whereas my '97 Ford service manual refers to them as "door stops". In better quality cars (e.g. Buick) these devices not only limit door swing, but also have a spring cam roller detent mechanism that prevents a door closing (due to its own weight) when you are on a slight upgrade. Cheaper cars (e.g. Firefly and Contiques) only seem to provide the means to restrict the door swing.

In regards to your specific problem, I personally use spray white lithium grease on the door hinges and the inner/outer pins of the check straps. You have to remove inner door panel to remove check strap but that is not necessary for lubrication (the inner and outer ends are similar construction). I find the rear driver's side door the stiffest door to operate, but that is the one that gets the least amount of use.

Thanks for this type of feedback; good content on BOTH problems (bi-focals & "check-straps")I have been experiencing.
Your last paragraph is very informative; I was unclear as to how these "check-straps" (i.e. hill-holders, etc)were constructed. Much clearer now ;-) ;-) White lithium grease in the aerosal can is my next plan of attack.
Thanks again!!!

I used triple-guard marine grease. That crap works good on anything needing lube