hello everyone .. i have a 1995 SE with the duratech 2.5 liter v6 . it has 102,000 miles on it . i am the 2nd owner.
the car ran fine (12/23/02).. it sat in an airport parking lot 1 week (over Christmas) upon return the batttery needed a jump(12/30/02). again when i drove home the driveway was full of snow and i turned car off and needed to charge battery as i am near the airport.
i drove around withit that day12/31 running errands and leavingthe car running in the parking lot so as not to have to risk another low battery condition.
i also put the battery on a trickle charger (2amp) that night , which had a 10.5 volt output, so the battery voltage may have dropped below what is necessary.
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1/1/03 i tryed starting it then i charged it and it cranked over fine but would not start. at first i thought this was a happy new year's present from the ford motor company and maybe it is as they may need revinue to pay the service people's salaries.
using a 10amp charger to bring voltage to where it should be . i heard wiring harnesses go bad behind pcm and under battery where rubbing occurrs but i think that is more on the 4 cylinder since i think they vibrate more - they are not as well balanced as a V6. i heard the insulation in 95 through 98 is improper and cracks and so forth esp in high temp climates - mine seems fine as NY is a cold climate.
when i turn the ignition and am supposedto hear the fuel pump for 1 or 2 seconds .. that doesnt happen .. i replaced the fuel filter and i am able to directly apply voltage to the fuel pump by applying a +12V to the relay terminal (after removing the fuel pump relay) and can hear the fuel pump motor wine quietly - which incidentally is probably hard to hear over the beeps coming from the ignition area of the dash.
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i also checked out the fuel cut off switch .. it was not tripped and it made contact as i was able to hear the fuel pump when i powered it through the auxilary fuse box in the engine compartment.
i just ohmed out my ign. coil and it seems good although
it is a 4 terminal connector and the haynes manual refers to a 3 term ( 4 cyl)
i get .5 ohms on one side and 1 ohm on the other side of the primary. the secondarys all seem good .. i dont know what the specs are for the primary 4 terminal connector. the secondaries have a 12k ohm between the pairs and infinite resistance on non pairs.
maybe the plugs are bad and the plug wires . what a pain in the rear to remove the front center plug boot i dont want to go through the plugs in the rear (next to firewall) -- i had to connect wires to my meter to get inside the coil to test the secondaries
there is battery voltage present on the primary coil incomingconnector between br/gn and bn/bk
crank and cam position sensors both ohmed out at 322 ohms (within spec)
relays and fuses and diodes in main and aux fuse boxes all seem (visually) good and suspect systems circuits fuses and relays and diodes have been removed and tested.
i am not sure what voltage swings should be coming out of the error code connector -- i dont have the code reader but am considering buying one at walmart for $25. so i used a digital meter (analog recommended) and the V swings seem very \very minute from like .2v to like .225 or .3 .. a tenth of a volt doesnt seem right for these test purposes.
so in the event that the fuel pump comes on for 2 seconds on ignition key turn or does not come on at all the computer is good. in the event the fuel pump comes on continuously the computer may be bad.
so the computer may be good but
i was trying to see if the power is getting to the PCM but my wiring schematic in the haynes manual has different colors than what i see on my pcm in the engine compartment passenger side corner firewall. Any body have the SERVICE MANUAL for the 1995 Contour SE with V6 ?
more recent events 1/5/03 :
the owner's manual indicates that the CHECK ENGINE light is supposed to come on for about 1 second upon ign. sw. turn.
I see no CHECK ENGINE light ( i haven't checked that that bulb is blown yet but ..) .. does this necessarily mean the computer is blown ? i pulled the PCM ( what a pain getting the steering fluid res. out) it seems to be good .
i removed the cover to see the chips all there with the coat of epoxy or similar clear resin . some little white powder and grainier existed on the surface and near the 60 pin connector which made me wonder if corrosion was going on. i noticed an EPROM chip with the UV window exposed which means it's not good if you want to keep the program in it's memory ) ..
special thanks to Lance K for helping out over the last several days through YIM .. he indicated that the KAM (keep alive mem - once gone means the computer may have problems coming alive as well ... but we have escalated this to YOU now !
also the charging of the battery without discon. of the bat. term. posts is apparently acceptable ( as i have done it several times and not had the car die the next day like it refused to do on newyears2003).
Thanks for your help all!
Eric S. Rochester, NY
