Having just bought a contour, then having the water pump go out, it is a fun

job.
The easiest way to get to it is to go in through the top side of the engine, and work your way down. You do have to go in through the fender well and remove the small cover from in front of the crankshaft pulley.
Parts that have to be pulled...
intake plenum on top of throttle body
upper brace (large U shaped)
coolant tank
motor mount
idler pulley
waterpump pulley (makes it easier to get out)
all three timing belt covers
crankshaft pulley (to remove lower timing belt cover)
timing belt
power steering pump (don't have to disconnect lines, just move it aside) (makes it easier to get to lower radiator hose if you pull it, you don't have to, but, prepare for busted knuckles)
I believe I covered it all, it's about a four hour job. A little more, a little less, depends on how mechanically inclined you are and if you have all the proper tools.
Hope this helps.
Beazulbub
'97 Contour
No MODS yet, just bought it. Soon though.