Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes put new brakes on and

i put new brakes all the way around on my car yesturday and i had to take alot of fluid out of the resivor. to be able to let pressure off to push the pistions back in. after doing all this the fluid was still at max and had done ever thing right brake peddal was still soft so i bled the brakes. it helped a little but it still takes one pump before they get hard any ideas there is no air in the lines i have bled them twice now any thing is helpful now thanks

Did you bleed the brakes till new fluid came out at each caliper? Since you just put new brakes on(rotors,pads etc?) it's always good to flush out the old fluid with new stuff!! This way you will for sure know you have no air in the lines. My old 300ZX gave me problems once with master cylinder though. Bled all the lines finally at the right rear caliper we got all the air out!!!

The retaining clips on the front pads may not be properly installed. Someone posted pictures from the Haynes manual a while back so you might find it on a search. If the retaining clips are properly installed, you may still have air in the system. A gravity bleed may be needed. You can also find a long post on the several types of bleeding from a search. It has been reposted several times by Andy.

Did you rough up or replace the rotors too? They may just need bedding in too. About 50 miles or so of on/off braking will wear the pads enough to conform to the rotors. My tech school instructor had an acid test for brakes before installing the drum you grab hold of the shoes and snap them on the backing plate - nothing should fall off. On discs, you shake the caliper before you install the wheel. I've seen brake pins that guys though they had tightened down pop out.
If the anti-rattle spring is too easy to install it probably is worn out and will dissappear soon. AP stores sell brake kits that have the springs, guides, etc. for about 7 bucks.

Originally posted by SILVER SVT:

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i had to take alot of fluid out of the resivor. to be able to let pressure off to push the pistions back in.
after doing all this the fluid was still at max and had done ever thing right brake peddal was still soft so i bled the brakes. it helped a little but it still takes one pump before they get hard any ideas there is no air in the lines i have bled them twice now any thing is helpful now thanks

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DON'T EVER reverse flow the ABS Unit or Master Cylinder! You run the high risk of damaging both components. Always loosen the bleeder screws when pushing the caliper back in.

I hope you didn't contaminate the ABS Unit or blow any seals on it or the Master Cylinder.

Also there is a specific pattern (LF-RR-RF-LR) you must bleed the brakes in. You can't just bleed the fronts.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Also there is a specific pattern (LF-RR-RF-LR) you must bleed the brakes in. You can't just bleed the fronts.

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I thought it was RR-LR-RF-LF, always starting farthest from the master cylinder?

Here ya' go. If youre going to bleed your brakes again here's the How-To from SPMotorsports.com

Linky...

Originally posted by bk4293:

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Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Also there is a specific pattern (LF-RR-RF-LR) you must bleed the brakes in. You can't just bleed the fronts.

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I thought it was RR-LR-RF-LF, always starting farthest from the master cylinder?

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It differs with ABS or non-ABS; DemonSVT's sequence is the Ford-specified correct one for ABS-equipped Contours.

I've had uneven brakes since I flushed the fluid while ago - sometimes the pedal is high and firm and sometimes I need to give a pump before I have good pedal pressure. I need to go back through the system and bleed them again when it gets a bit warmer, along with the clutch.

Scott

How does the sequence of bleeding the wheels affect the brakes? I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm just curious as to what could be affected by bleeding one wheel before or after the other. Any why can't I just bleed one wheel, if I only have one wheel that needs bleeding? I'm curious.

Originally posted by bentleywarren:

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How does the sequence of bleeding the wheels affect the brakes? I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm just curious as to what could be affected by bleeding one wheel before or after the other. Any why can't I just bleed one wheel, if I only have one wheel that needs bleeding? I'm curious.

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Because they use what is called a dual-diagonal braking system.

Diagonal corners of the braking system are tied together. RF & LR for example.

This way you bleed the independant system sides together to eliminate the off chance of air or contamination in the system backflowing into components they share and staying in the system.
This is even more important on ABS equipped cars.

Also you want to change your brake fluid every 2 years anyway so there would be no reason to even want to do only one side (not that you should ever do only 1 side)