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I have a 2000 SVT. I put a replacement K&N Filter in the original filter housing. Everthing was runnin fine, I was happy. Then I was rollin with my window down and I noticed this high pitch whistle just when I was pressing my gas peddle. I noticed the whistle again when I was lettin off the gas at about the same peddle postion. I thought maybe there was some obsticles in my air flow in the fendor. Nothing. . .so I proceeded to inpect my air flow a little futher. I noticed a gasket/screen inbetween my filter houseing and my air flow sensor housing/tube. I took it out and tried to seat the two housings together again and noticed the gap and was evident that the gasket was needed sooooooo. . . .I tore the screen out of the gasket and put it back together. Everthing seemed to be goin good, but there was still the whistle /sigh. Now, when I start my car it revs very high, near 3-3.5 for about 10 seconds then drops to about 1750 then drops down to about 750 after anther 5 seconds. Do you know if these problems are related? Did I screw up? I went to my ford dealer and they wanna charge me 35 dollars for that gasket/screen. Will that fix my problem? Any help is appreciated.
JMS
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yeah, the screen was necesarry, its some type of diffuser screen for the maf, i believe, as far as the whistle, again i believe that when you put a k&n type filter in svts you usually hear some type of sucking sound, again not 100%, just some past experience 
96 se with svt ground effects and pre 98 svt front bumper, optimized tb, svt maf w/svt intake, daul exhaust, with no main cat,resonator, svt gauges and short shifter,reverse lockout removed,e1 svt rims
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the whistle you are hearing is normal with the increased airflow with the k&n nothing to sweat over. You should reset the pcm the let the car compensate for the increase in airflow. that should take car of the rpm rise.
Rob Collins
98.5 svt blk/blue #5778of6535
I've got some mods.
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The whistle is your TB sucking in more air! That's a good thing! Most SVT TB's do it including mine on my cougar (added it) and it was the first thing I noticed after upgrading, kind of cool when you get used to it.
The MAF diffuser is added to SVT's to smooth air flow and create less turbulence for the MAF, its not required and you definitly aren't hurting anything by leaving it out.
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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Originally posted by robzride:
You should reset the pcm the let the car compensate for the increase in airflow. that should take car of the rpm rise.
Ok fill me in  How do I reset the PCM?
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Scourge of the Master Debaters
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I'm not sure if its different for a 2000, but on my '98 non-SVT, just pull fuses #4 and #11 for about 20 minutes or so. Then replace the fuses, start the engine, and drive around for a while.
Beer is my Gatorade.
Hooray Beer.
'98 "Sport" Pacific Green
'98 E0 SVT Silver Frost
Pictures
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dude, you should've disconnected the battery, that's what resets it, unplug a terminal for 10 minutes minimum, if you want, you can also unplug the #4 and #11 amp's as well. . .then your engine will stop revving at 3k or whatever. . .it's just trying to remap, and if you reset it, then turn the car back on and let it idle for a couple of minutes, it'll figure it's stuff out. . .
keep the mesh in, keeps stuff cleaner anyways. . .
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the wistle is awesome I love it. I feel like I have turbo. you gotta love that sound though it just makes you feel good about your car when you get on it and it hums *eyes gleam* 
Trollin the boards as of 9/23
Originally posted by GS474:
stock hp is never enough
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Originally posted by kinger:
The MAF diffuser is added to SVT's to smooth air flow and create less turbulence for the MAF, its not required and you definitly aren't hurting anything by leaving it out.
The screen does, in fact, have a purpose. It makes the MAF readings more accurate when using a conical filter. Leave it in if you have a conical filter, no worries if it's a panel filter.
Last edited by PA 3L SVT; 12/12/02 05:11 AM.
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Originally posted by hetfield:
I'm not sure if its different for a 2000, but on my '98 non-SVT, just pull fuses #4 and #11 for about 20 minutes or so. Then replace the fuses, start the engine, and drive around for a while.
Uh....no. Do this...you'll be much happier with the results: I don't remember it 100% off hand (It's in the Factory Service Manuals) Basics are: 1. Start car 2. Let it idle to warm up (~5 minutes) 3. Take it for a leisurely drive at various rpms accelerating & decerating (3-5 minutes) 4. Get on the car hard at various rpms accelerating & decerating (3-5 minutes) 5. Stop the car & let it idle 6. Turn on the A/C (2 minutes or until idle settles down) 7. Repeat step 3 (A/C is cut off at WOT so step 4 in unnecessary) 8. Stop car and let idle a minute or so 9. Shut off The PCM will continue to learn a little more over the next several driving cycles as well.
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