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My Tour just started to give me this problem. When the engine revvs above 2.5k rpm, all the lights start to dim and the voltage starts to drop (I have a voltimeter installed on my car). The problem gets worse when it goes towards 3k rpm where it drops to around 12V or lower. It seems that my car still starts OK. But when I check when the car off today, the batter only has little over 12V. I'm not sure if that's caused by a faulty alternator or just the batter is going bad? I remember on my old Subaru, when the alternator went, it started to suck charges. Not sure if that's the case now though. I'm definitely not looking forward to replace the alternator in the driveway because it seems to be a worse job than replacing the wheel bearing. But if it is bad, I'll have to replace it myself because I can't dish out $500 to have someone to do it for me. The first thing I have to figure out first though is whether it's the batter or the alternator. Is there a way to check without taking the battery out of the car, or if that's the only way?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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You can take it to a shop that can check out battery and alternator ......You also can take them both out and take it to the nearest autozone or pep boys(where i work) :)and they will check them for free but it has to be off the car to do it for free...if not they will charge you roughly $50ish...But i think its your alternator that could be the problem...hopefully i helped you 
-Mancho- cars name is Connie 99 Silver Frost SVT #1986 k&n filter with cut out box true duals w/ flows Ground Controls with 17's mille miglia ... Hightower headlights 15.4 at 90.29 at Milan dragway before the true duals
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Joined: Dec 2000
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Have you tried to clean the terminals on the battery? My car had no power and would not start, so I took the battery out and had Autozone test it(I couldn't drive it there). It was fine, but that thing was nasty looking! I bought a terminal brush for $1.99 and cleaned the posts before putting it back. I decided to try to start the car before calling to have it towed, and the thing started up with no problem. This may not be your problem, but it's worth a try if you haven't done it already.
************************* 2000 SE Sport V6 Deep Navy CC Metallic My 2G Sport *************************
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The terminals are clean with none of those corroded stuff on it...
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Joined: May 2001
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Sounds to me like an alternator and/or regulator is in the process of failing based on previous experience w/ other cars. Don't know if the two are separate on these cars, so it could be one or the other. A multimeter check at the battery terminals at various rpms/loads should confirm failure to charge & conditions of failure. Unfortunately, the charging system is a "closed loop" type of setup where the operation of the regulator is dependent on battery-state of charge; dependent on the ability of the alternator to charge the battery based on the condition of the battery, etc. Various shop manuals illustrate mulimeter procedures to use so that you can narrow down the problem area.... Example: at idle, no-load voltage @ battery terminals should be about 13.5 volts; with headlights on, should be around 12.5 volts. Use a good multimeter & not your car gauge to measure! Good luck!
Is the smoke alarm in your house also known as the "dinner bell"?
'99 Zetec VCT Daily Driver
Mild Air Filter Mod
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Testing has to be done under load to be conclusive. Find a shop that can check it out for a reasonable price. My favorite was a place that rebuilt alternators. They didn't even charge for a test. Takes about a minute. LOL!
'98 SE V-6 5-spd ASB Silver stock
48K miles in May '02
Like it for Oregon coast canyons!
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If it is the voltage regulator, it can be replaced separately from the alternator. That's the good news. The bad news is, you have to be able to get at the alternator to replace it. :p
I agree with what was said. Go get the proper diagnosis before jumping to conclusions.
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Joined: Jul 2000
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OK, I just got back from the parts store that tested my battery. They said the battery is good, so now the alternator must be the problem. Some of you say it might just be the regulator, but is there a way to test that?
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Joined: May 2000
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I don't know about the regulator but if you take off the positive battery cable while its running and it dies right away its the alternator. Good luck and I hope you get this taken care of before the bad weather hits 
Roger R
SVT/SHO Society SE MI rep
2000 CSVT #1253 of 2150
silver frost/midnight blue
2-8" dark blue racing stripes
Mequiars...simply the best!
"...and number 5, now this is the most important Rat, when it comes to making out, whenever possible, put on side one of Led Zeppelin 4"
USMondeo@aol.com
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Originally posted by 2G Sport:
Have you tried to clean the terminals on the battery? My car had no power and would not start, so I took the battery out and had Autozone test it(I couldn't drive it there). It was fine, but that thing was nasty looking! I bought a terminal brush for $1.99 and cleaned the posts before putting it back. I decided to try to start the car before calling to have it towed, and the thing started up with no problem. This may not be your problem, but it's worth a try if you haven't done it already. That can happen other places too. On a previous junker I thought I had a bad starter, and all it needed was to clean the terminal on the cable from the battery where it connected to the starter... Taking the alternator out is a somewhat annoying job, but manageable once the serpentine belt and engine mount are out of the way. Note where the wires attach because it can be less than obvious when putting it back in, and the Haynes manual omits that detail.
96 GL Zetec ATX, white with pinstripe, nickname " Sam Smooth " mods so far: CTA intake with homemade heat shield, KVR drilled front rotors & carbon pads w/ 500° fluid planned mods: exhaust (want to keep it quiet), e-ram (awaiting installation), diablo chip involuntary mods: compression increased after head gasket failure
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