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Joined: Apr 2001
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Some notes from the guy who had them first
You need to use the top hole at the rear or they are not strong enough to keep the Bonnet (soory Hood) up. We had a load of folks in the UK moaning that they would only just keep the hood up if you lifted it all the way. turns out they were all using the bottom hole. The top hole works and wont touch the bonnet if it is adjusted and levelled properly.
Also mine are beginning to rust after 6 months, so go and give yours a good soaking in WD-40 and wax them NOW! before its too late
Mad Mole Visit Mad Moles Mondeo Madness 2L Zetec, Cams, Stage 2 head, Valve work, Powerflow, Unichip, AEM Ram, K&N, Ecotek, 75mm Lower etc. 192 BHP, Faster than a speeding Duratec!
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Joined: May 2000
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Finally installed them this weekend, and the look AWESOME I love them. Easy to do, 15 tops (taking my sweet time of course) Shouldn't be more than a 10 min job!! One thing I have not read here is... on the driver's side there are cables running underneath the fender lip, the original bolt has a rubber cap. Make sure you use it. Helps to prevent piercing the cables.  Other than that, easiest mod done to date! :p
jjh
2000 T-Red SVT
#2134 of 2150
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 433
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Originally posted by madmole:
Some notes from the guy who had them first
You need to use the top hole at the rear or they are not strong enough to keep the Bonnet (soory Hood) up. We had a load of folks in the UK moaning that they would only just keep the hood up if you lifted it all the way. turns out they were all using the bottom hole. The top hole works and wont touch the bonnet if it is adjusted and levelled properly.
Also mine are beginning to rust after 6 months, so go and give yours a good soaking in WD-40 and wax them NOW! before its too late Could you post a pic of how yours are installed please. I would just like to see how you installed yours for reference sake. I'm gonna wax mine to prevent the rusting problem also. Thanks for the tip.
Silver Frost 2000 SVT #1443 of 2150 Mirror Tint/ Momo shift knob/ Kurtz Kustom pedals Ventshield raingaurds, moonroof and hood bug deflectors True Rev Induction Kit/ BAT Air Inlet Pipe Philips HID kit/ PIAA superwhite fogs/ Chrome Gas Bonnet Lifters Top of line Alpine system( NVE-N851A, DVA-5205, IVA-C800, TUE-T011A, KCE-150V, CHA-S624, PRA-H400), PPI (PC 4100, PC 2150,PRO 10's), Image Dynamics CD2 Comp MH and IDQ-62. Motorola Timeport HF car kit Looking to increase performance! http://photos.yahoo.com/hpick1 Future Mods waiting to be put on: Lotek Guage Pod w/ volt, a/f ratio, and oil pressue. Blue neon undercar kit Aussie Bar w/ upgraded backing plate Bullitt Fuel Door Magnacore Wires Ground Control Kit w/ Koni Struts
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,002
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Originally posted by madmole:
Some notes from the guy who had them first
You need to use the top hole at the rear or they are not strong enough to keep the Bonnet (soory Hood) up. We had a load of folks in the UK moaning that they would only just keep the hood up if you lifted it all the way. turns out they were all using the bottom hole. The top hole works and wont touch the bonnet if it is adjusted and levelled properly.
Also mine are beginning to rust after 6 months, so go and give yours a good soaking in WD-40 and wax them NOW! before its too late Those specific ones maybe, but Paul from the UK had his KKM ones a long time ago....
********************* WEBMASTER OF: www.fordmondeo.org ********************* Car I own: lightly modded mondeo ********************* Mondeo, Daddy of the Contour!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,847
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OP
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Originally posted by madmole:
Some notes from the guy who had them first
You need to use the top hole at the rear or they are not strong enough to keep the Bonnet (soory Hood) up. We had a load of folks in the UK moaning that they would only just keep the hood up if you lifted it all the way. turns out they were all using the bottom hole. The top hole works and wont touch the bonnet if it is adjusted and levelled properly.
Also mine are beginning to rust after 6 months, so go and give yours a good soaking in WD-40 and wax them NOW! before its too late Hey Mole, thanks for getting us hooked up with the company to ge thtem from! We tried the top hole on the hood and the strut isn't long enough to do it. It will open fine, but runs out of room in the actual strtu cartridge and bottoms out, thus not allowing you to be able to close the hood. I don't know what would happen if I switched to the other hole in the fender at the same time, didn't try that, but might be worth a shot. I agree though that they will not lift the hood, but hold it up just fine once in position.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 97
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Hey, I've installed struts last week, using Mighty Lift #95050, the ball studs from a '97-'00 F-150 and the mounting points mentioned. The end result: not bad, but room for improvement. With the struts mounted at the rear position, the hood needs guiding up to the raised position. The angle is just too acute. I'm going to try and reposition them. I'll let you know how it turns out. 
Black/tan early '98 Contour SE Sport; V6, MTX, loaded
Kenwood KDC 316S CD deck; aux. dome light mod; trunk popper spring; resonator bypass; hood strut mod; SVT grille; Continental tires
Mom also has black/tan '98 Mystique LS; V6, ATX, Alpine CD deck
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Joined: May 2000
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I just fixed all the installation pics, sorry I did a little rearranging in my Fototime account and forgot about old posts like this!
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