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Ok, figured now was as good a time as any to move this to the correct forum.
Here are the pics I took, I know I probably missed some key angles, so if you need something else, post it.
EDIT: I deleted all the pics to save some bandwidth and make it so hopefully nobody gets confused as to which hole to use.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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I see you copied someone with taste and got the metal capped ends over the fugly big plastic caps...  Got tired of waiting in line with the hood closed eh?  Looks great!!! How far above the stock prop rod height does it sit now? Mine are a good bit. Don't forget to remove the prop rod. Saves like 1lb... :p Plus it looks cleaner...
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Eric,
Not trying to be funny or anything but looks like it should fit to me. Might have to remove the 2 bolts and make a new hole.
What is the problem everyone is running into. I haven't got mine yet but I hope they will be here before this weekend, I'd like to take a look at it.
Anyone??
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Joined: Sep 2000
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My bad... I thought you had them installed already... You do not want to use the open hole! I tried it with washers and it just BENT the fender lip! I used the fender bolt hole just behind it (towards firewall side) It just needed to be enlarged a little & I also put a nut on the stud for insurance... My struts measure 16" in length when extended and holding the hood up. They hold it considerably higher then the stock prop rod. (you've seen it) I also used 8mm ball studs on all 4 sides and my struts have metal retaining clips to hold them to the studs! Be VERY careful tapping the hood mounting hole. You can easily wallow out the hole too big... Use only a high Quality tap! I flattened 2 cheap ones (generic specials - I returned them of course ) before I got off my wallet and bought a quality tap.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Looking at those photos, if you compare them tp Mad moles piccys, it seems to me that if you drill a hole for the self-tapper, where the dimple is on the fender seam.(between the square hole and the rear bolt in line with the coolant screwcap). This would put it about in line with ours, just in front of the first line on the coolant bottle.
Also, the bolt for the hood should be a direct fit for the existing hole, unless the Mk2(to us) has a different thread.
96 Mondeo 2.0 GLX 16v Zetec
Ford 16" 12 spokes ABS
59000 miles
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,066
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Yea I agree.....Looks like there is already a hole there, it has just been filled. Are you going to install them soon Eric? Later Originally posted by mobydick:
Looking at those photos, if you compare them tp Mad moles piccys, it seems to me that if you drill a hole for the self-tapper, where the dimple is on the fender seam.(between the square hole and the rear bolt in line with the coolant screwcap). This would put it about in line with ours, just in front of the first line on the coolant bottle.
Also, the bolt for the hood should be a direct fit for the existing hole, unless the Mk2(to us) has a different thread.
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Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by mobydick:
Looking at those photos, if you compare them tp Mad moles piccys, it seems to me that if you drill a hole for the self-tapper, where the dimple is on the fender seam.(between the square hole and the rear bolt in line with the coolant screwcap). This would put it about in line with ours, just in front of the first line on the coolant bottle.
Also, the bolt for the hood should be a direct fit for the existing hole, unless the Mk2(to us) has a different thread. Sounds like the perfect location to me too. Like I said, we will need to drill another hole! Now where is my drill??? I'll try it this weekend.
jjh
2000 T-Red SVT
#2134 of 2150
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Joined: Jun 2001
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All,
This may be a little late, but I found an alternative to the drill and tap method for the hood ball mount. I don't know if it will work with the hood struts you guys purchased, but it worked VERY well with the ones mentioned on the Mods page.
The F-150 uses hood struts as well. They use a stud for the lower ball mount that will DIRECTLY screw into the hole in the hood. This way, it is Completely reversible, if anyone wants to go back to the prop rod (for whatever reason.)
Just a suggestion.
Good luck,
David
2000 SVT #669
Wimpy Stock stuff
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by dave:
The F-150 uses hood struts as well. They use a stud for the lower ball mount that will DIRECTLY screw into the hole in the hood. This way, it is Completely reversible, if anyone wants to go back to the prop rod (for whatever reason.)
I DO NOT like this way at all! It causes wear stress on the metal as it has to give some every time the hood is raised and lowered. Plus the force is at an angle! Not perpendicular and fastened down with washers on both sides, stock thread plate and a nut like a ball stud is... ...just my 25 cents worth...
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Joined: Oct 2001
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David,
I've been wanting to do the stut mod but joined the group far after the purchase had been made. What year F150 uses struts? Are you saying they're a match? If so I would just need to go to the dealer and ask for hood struts for an F150?
'98 GL 2.0 ATM
S/M Lights, Recontent Fogs,Door Handle Lights, Stereo Upgrade, short shift, painted gauge. Engine still stock...for now.
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