Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension Front and rear subframe alignment - Please Help!

I've just been aligning the rear subframe and have a question- the trailing arms need to be loosened at the body to allow the subframe to move, should they be tightened with the weight on the wheels or not?

With the front subframe alignment (that's out slightly too!) should the front engine mount be loosened at the subframe- or do I just loosen the four subframe bolts and move it? I'm not sure about this one and don't want to take the car to the dealer for a drivetrain alignment afterwards because I've stuffed it up......

I copied this out of the Ford Service Manual....maybe it'll help.
1. With an assistant, raise rear sub-frame to body and loosely install four rear sub-frame to body retaining bolts.

2. Install Sub-frame Alignment Pin Set T94P-2100-AH into rear sub-frame and body alignment holes. After aligning the holes, slightly tighten the rear sub-frame-to-body bolts.

3. After rear sub-frame alignment is complete, tighten four rear sub-frame to body bolts to 102-138 N-m (75-101 lb-ft) and remove alignment tools.

4. Install the forward rear suspension arm and bushings and rearward rear suspension arm and bushings to the rear wheel spindles. Tighten the retaining bolts and nuts for the rear suspension arm and bushings to 70-98 N-m (52-72 lb-ft) and the retaining bolts for the rear suspension arm and bushings to 102-138 N-m (75-101 lb-ft).

5. Install the muffler and tailpipe assembly. Refer to «Section 09-00».

6. Install the rear tires and wheels. Refer to «Section 04-04».

7. Lower hoist.

8. Check rear end alignment. Adjust if necessary. Refer to «Section 04-00».

Again, out of the Ford Service Manual, in reference to the front subframe:

Front Sub-frame Alignment

6. Install A/C accumulator retaining bracket screw to the front sub-frame. Tighten screws securely.

7. Connect power steering oil cooler hoses at RH front of front sub-frame. Secure hose clamps securely.

8. Install Powertrain Alignment Gauge T94P-6000-AH or equivalent to LH front engine support bracket (6028) and front sub-frame. Tighten two retaining bolts to 27 N-m (20 lb-ft) and through bolt snug.

9. Remove Three Bar Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent.

10. Install RH front engine support insulator with retaining bolts to front sub-frame and through bolt. Tighten two retaining bolts to front sub-frame to 41-55 N-m (30-41 lb-ft) and through bolt to 103-137 N-m (75-102 lb-ft). Observe position of RH front engine support insulator. It must be centered in bracket and in perfect alignment front to rear.

11. Remove Powertrain Alignment Gauge T94P-6000-AH.

12. Install LH front engine support insulator to front sub-frame with two bolts. Tighten bolts to 10 N-m (7 lb-ft). Observe LH front engine support insulator to ensure perfect front to rear alignment. Re-tighten bolts to 41-55 N-m (30-41 lb-ft). Install LH front engine support insulator through bolt. Tighten to 103-137 N-m (75-102 lb-ft).

13. Install stabilizer bar link to front stabilizer bar. Install and tighten retaining nuts to 47-65 N-m (35-48 lb-ft).

14. Connect front suspension lower arm at pinch bolts to ball joints. Tighten bolts to 50-58 N-m (37-43 lb-ft).

15. Connect steering gear to steering column and install pinch bolt. Refer to «Section 11-04».

16. Install catalytic converter. Refer to «Section 09-00».

17. Install LH and RH tie rod ends (3A130) onto front wheel knuckle. Refer to «Section 11-02».

18. Install tires and wheels (1007). Refer to «Section 04-04».

19. Install front bumper cover braces to LH and RH side of front sub-frame. Tighten bolts securely.

20. Install radiator supports to front sub-frame. Tighten bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

21. Install splash shield at front of front sub-frame. Tighten retaining screws securely.

22. Lower hoist.

23. Remove safety wire retaining radiator and engine cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan shroud assembly to the radiator support.

24. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, install exhaust manifold shield and oil level dipstick. Tighten retaining bolts to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in). On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, install water pump pulley shield. Tighten retaining bolts securely.

25. Connect battery ground cable.

26. Fill power steering system with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to «Section 11-02». Run engine and check for leaks.

27. Check front end alignment. Adjust if necessary. Refer to «Section 04-00».

Thanks for the info- it does help a bit.

Has anyone actually moved their front subframe??? The above instructions appear to be doing the drive train alignment (after an engine removal perhaps?)- is this necessary for a small alignment change?

I've done the rear subframe alignment (only slightly out) and the car does appear to track better and hold it's line over bumps better. I know a wheel alignment is also needed, so I'm getting that done next week (toe set as close to zero degrees as possible for both F & R appears to be the consensus for optimum handling)

Yes, I've had both in/out and the rear approx. half a dozen times. The instructions in the Ford (& Haynes/Chiltons) are incomplete, specifically with regards to the 6 rear control arms. Because the arms are bushed in rubber, you must preload them correctly before final nut/bolt tightening. This means having the various arms at approx. their correct ride height with respect to the chassis.

The front & rear subframes should not require realigning unless they've been removed or the bolts have been loosened somehow. Make sure you use the proper alignment pin set and you'll have no further problems.

The drivetrain alignment procedure is a completely different procedure and aligns the motor/transaxle assembly to the front subframe.

If either the drivetrain or subframe allignment was off, could this cause the wheel alignment to be off? If so, when the wheel allignment was reset, would it creep back out of alignment?
I'm asking cause my alignment doesn't seem to hold too well. And, no, I don't hit stuff w/ my car.

Thanks for the input Bradness. The car has only done 7500km from new and has had a problem with "wandering" over the road at highway speeds. I've tried a four wheel alignment etc, without success- hence the subframe alignments.

I've done the rear with the correct tools and it now seems to hold a straight line better than before. It was interesting as on one side at the rear the alignment tool wouldn't fit into the chassis due to the hole being malformed (is there such a word!!) The chassis, where the hole is, is formed from two pieces of steel welded on top of each other with both having the alignment hole through them. With my car the two holes were offset slightly when welded- hence the tool wouldn't fit. Makes me wonder how it was aligned at the factory......

I've tried the tools in the front subframe and they won't go into the chassis, but I haven't had a close look to see how far it is out. That's next to be done. I might just have to try moving it with the engine mount done up and hope for the best- from the reasearch I've done it just seems to cause a NVH issue, no damage.

I don't like taking it to Ford dealers as they are all useless over here.

Derek, I don't think the subframe alignment could cause your alignment to drift. Worn suspension components are more likely, eg front lower arm bushes, and I've read about some people with rear control arm problems too.

Thanks for the input

Well I aligned the front subframe- just loosened the four main bolts and left the front engine mount done up. It was only out by a couple of millimetres and I was surprised how easy it was to move.

Took it for a quick drive and didn't notice any increased NVH- what a relief!

I'm beginning to wonder if Ford even bother to align them at the factory. I've owned it since new, only done 7500km and never hit any kerbs, yet both subframes were out of alignment. Hopefully after a wheel alignment the handling will be improved.