Originally posted by lardy:
Its always been my understanding that they will work fine... for a while. The difference being that the car audio stuff is more resistant to corrosion. So the end of your cable at the battery will most likely corrode faster, resulting in a loss of amperage, and perhaps an overheating problem in the future.
I've heard of some people using welding cable, but preparing the ends with some sort of corrosion resistant goop.
L.
Copper is copper it corrodes at the same rate no matter what color insulator you put on the outside or how much you pay for it. If you are talking about connectors, gold is the best it doesnt corrode but it also doesnt conduct as well as copper. Silver on the other hand is the best "room temperature" conductor, but it tarnishes easily. (note) Do not under any circumstances ground your stereo to the body (or frame) of your car, ground loop will most likely occur and it has the potential of toasting your amp. Run the same cable back to the negative on your battery as you ran from the positive. Electrons actually flow from negetive to positive likewise "holes" flow from positive to negative therfore makeing the "pressure" on each side of the battery the same (if you had a water treatment plant would you suck water in through a 2 foot pipe and try to eject it through a pin-hole, i think not). Keep in mind you will not get ground loop noise in your audio, but the power supply of your amplifier will be dammaged by groundloop.
