Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting am i being fed a line?

Rippppppppp offfffffffff
What they are telling you they have to change is total bull$hit. Run very fast and don't look back.

overnight I thought of something that might need inspecting: the tube for the gastank emissions from the charcoal canister is just under the paasenger side rear. the charcoal canister is mounted under the car right below where the spare tire is. That might have gotten soaked?? But it shouldn't make the car not start.
Good luck.

Air line,heater and warm,dry out the electrics and it should be fine,check the plug leads for water in the boots,the plug on the cpu and all other engine plugs for water,dry em out ,in a nice warm shop and it should be fine!....what a rip off!

!!!Danger Will Robinson Danger!!!

I hate mechanics like that. They think they know everything about cars but nothing about electronics...

No, they know a lot more then you think. Your just becomming a victim of greed!!!

Mo mony, mo mony mo mony!!

Hide a camera under the hood and when proof arises, blackmail the f#####!
my 5.3 cents worth

I agree with terry. I used to do landscaping and I accidentally drove a 48" walkbehind mower into a swimming pool while at full power, blades on the whole deal. It was completely submerged.

All I did was change the oil, remove the spark plug to blow out the water in the cylinder, and dry out the air filter.

I ran it 5 min. Changed the oil again becasue it turned into mayonase.

ran it 10 min. changed the oil again

then took it out mowing the next day and never another problem.

accidentally drove a mower into a pool......damn boy what were you on

Here's a thought, for when someone drives in and says, "It was in such deep water that it quit running."
1. Pull plugs to check for water in cylinders. Don't put old plugs back in.
2. Change fuel filter to reduce chance of water in gasoline.
3. Remove valve covers to check for water around cam. Put on new gasket.
All important stuff, and protective of VERY expensive parts. Total cost might be $200 plus parts. Then you can see if there is further damage. Except for the price quoted, not too crazy?

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The water was no more than a foot deep. I don't see how water can get into the gasoline at that depth. Even with the fuel lines, pump, and filter submerged in water, there's no way water is getting in - its a completely sealed system. If it wasn't there would be fuel leaks!



Again, with a foot or less depth of water, there's no way any water can find its way into the valve cover area. Even if it did, there's no reason to pull the valve covers. Simply change the oil after the engine is running again.

I've been a boater for over 16 years, and I've managed to sink two of my boats, and get the submerged engines running perfectly again. And this is with engines that have been completely submerged for a day or two in salt water. Much worse than a splash of foot deep fresh water.

A story with a moral: WAaaay back when, I bought a Kawasaki triple. The heads and cyliders were off and in a box in the guy's house. The bike was outside all (snowy) winter...... So the crank was filled with water for???? 5 months???? I bought the whole thing for a song. took it home and fixed it. The bike worked perfectly with just getting the water out and sticking the pistons in with new rings. So I think water damage is mostly about mold and rot in the interior... Aside from hydro-locked pistons, water don't mean squat to an engine.