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Joined: Nov 2001
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A trick I have used occasionly to get rid of bad gas, etc. is to remove the line from the fuel filter on the side going to the engine. Place a hose over the end of the fuel filter and run it into a 5 gal gas can.

Borrow or beg a hanheld engine analyzer. Run the fuel pump test to empty the gas tank completely by using the electric pump in the tank. I was able to virtually empty the tank and refil with fresh gas with a cleaner for good measure and never had a problem again.

Regards,
Bob T.


An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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All,

Got a call from the dealership and surprisingly they didn't list it as No Problem Found.

Apparently the technician diagnosed it as the fuel pump.

I would think that the IMRC's would throw the MIL on if they malfunctioned (though I could be wrong.) Also, They (IMRC's)generally open at around 4k RPM well below the RPM's when the symptoms occur. And it would be independent of fuel level in the tank. Mine wouldn't ast up until 1/2 tank, or less.

I will pick mine up at lunch time and give a follow-up confirmation of the correction (assuming they didn;t fill the gas tank up.)

Later,
david


2000 SVT #669
Wimpy Stock stuff
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All,

Just picked up the SVT and the Fuel Pump solved the high RPM problem. Diagnosis was low fuel pressure. However, now the engine shutters when taking off from a stop.

I don't think that it's the clutch disk/flywheel with a hot spot or glazing, because it didn't do it before the fuel pump was replaced. Also, It seems to be independent of RPM's when taking off. In fact, if I just let the idle speeds move the car (no throttle), the car shutters less.

Question: Could the computer be used to the failing pump and still trying to compensate? they did NOT disconnect the battery, so the computer has not been reset.

I plan to do tis tonight, just for giggles. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreicated.

Thanks,
David


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Looks like I mysteriously contracted Clutch Shutter while the fuel pump was being replaced.

The Fuel Pump did fix the hesistation problem, but now I am probably looking at an uphill battle on the clutch, although a slim chance exists that it could be the engine isolators/bolts; but I have a gut feeling that it's not. I got 19.5k miles on the ODO, so I think things may get a little bloody on this issue.

Hope this helps on the acceleration issue.

Later,
David


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Hey gang its me Don the man that started this hole topic, sorry I didn't get back into replying fast enough, work keeps me a tad busy at times, but when I can break free occasionaly I will write.

Anyways, Dave I had the same problem as you, I got a 2000 black & tan SVT only 12,000 on oDo though. I still have a warranty but I was curious to know what was wrong with my Tour. Well in the end, and after 10 days at the dealer on two occasions for the same problem (the jerking), problem was resolved. On the first attempt they replaced all six plugs and the ignition coil assembly, thinking it was an elec problem but obviously it wasnt. The 2nd attempt they replaced the (in tank FUEL PUMP), a faulty relay, air intake, and throttle body (the last because of complaints of throttle hang). I'm happy to say thus far problem resolved and purring like a tiger (seems faster to although I think its psychological), but certainly sounds great!!!
I have other problems as well especially with water leaks, 4 different kinds in fact, in the trunk(twice), fog lights(3 times), tail lights, and sunroof/headliner in cabin. I love the space and performance of the car but frankly 26 days out of service in one year and I can almost garantee more days to come cant keep me on the Ford bandwagon for long. I am currently in the process of lemoning the car, dont know if i can go through with it though I love the machine (other alternatives though are jap cars only, altima 3.5se, impreza WRX, or mazd mp3 (with jax racing aftermarket S/C), but will see.

I hope all this usefull info makes you feel a little better about your Tour. I'll get back to your replies not with speed but I will get back, see you later and keep cruising @ 100mph!!!!!!

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My '99 SVT just exhibited this exact problem this morning. I have about a 1/4 tank of gas so I will top her off at lunch with good stuff (Sunoco Ultra 94) and put some STP Water treatment in to be safe. I run Techron thru at every oil change so I'm not too suspicious of injector clogging. If that doesn't solve it I will try (in this order)

1) Fuel filter (I did this 15000Km ago so not too likely but I might as well eliminate it).
2) Clean K&N (or put clean stock filter back in to try)
3) Clean MAF
4) Plugs and Wires (I have 65000Km on originals)

If this doesn't work I guess I am at the dealer. I suspect its the fuel pump if I had to make a bet but I thought I would do the cheap and normal maintainance items first.

Any comments / suggestions would be appreciated!

// Chris Root
// '99 SVT

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Your problem sounds like it is the same problem I had. It took me 3 times taking it to the mechanic before he realized what it was. When full throttle in first gear at about 5.5k rpm it hesistated. The first time the mechanic replaced the fuel filter and that worked for one fill-up on gas. The problem returned and the mechanic didn't figure out what it was until the catalytic converter started vibrated, which was a sign that the fuel system was running too rich or lean and that excess fuel was being burned in the catalytic converter. So the fuel system cost me $370 installed (which fixed the problem) but since I have an aftermarket cat that is not under the federal 80k mile emissions warranty (because it is aftermarket) i'm being set back another $180 to replace it.

P.S. I was also having problems with the fuel gauge before the problem was fixed. It would fluctuate greatly when reading below 1/4 tank and it took a lot longer for the low fuel light to come on.


2000 Contour 2.5L ATX (Medium Steel Blue)

Items for Sale
  • SVT Indiglo Guages (NEW)
  • Traction Control/Rear Defrost Switch (NEW)
  • V6 Speedometer/Guage Cluster w/ Tach (51k miles)
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Quote:
Originally posted by madmole:
Could be dodgy electrics to the fuel sender and pump. That would explain the dab guage and intermittent fuelling at high load
Can you please explain why "Look under the back seat and check the wiring", as i am having a similar problem


Matthew J. McSwegan
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