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#442877 09/23/02 04:25 AM
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I know the SVT has an engine oil cooler...does that constitute more oil? I would think so. How much oil are you guys running in your SVTs?


'98 SVT Contour, in at least 639 pieces 4 Speed MTX...synchro and shift fork replacement in progress
#442878 09/23/02 12:41 PM
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I usually take a philips head screwdriver and punch a hole into the lowest point of the filter...and allow it to be drained in an aimed manner into the drip pan rather than down the engine block and onto the exhaust.

Try it...you might like it!

#442879 09/23/02 01:23 PM
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Some owners' manuals say 5.5 quarts, and some say 5.8. (My 96 says 5.5...)

Either way, I think 6.0 is a safe number, and convenient, too. I think I'm going to start doing this on my next change, for all the reasons noted above.



Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
#442880 09/23/02 02:43 PM
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Originally posted by RogerB:
Some owners' manuals say 5.5 quarts, and some say 5.8. (My 96 says 5.5...)

Either way, I think 6.0 is a safe number, and convenient, too. I think I'm going to start doing this on my next change, for all the reasons noted above.




Pan redesign in 97 or 98..was 5.5 qts but 98+ say 5.7qts. I use about 6.2 or so (extra 1/2 qt). Interestingly, 6 qts puts me exactly at full on dipstick.


1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760) "People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use." -Soren Kierkegaard (as posted by Jato)
#442881 09/23/02 05:51 PM
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in addition to lubricating the filter gasket its also not a bad idea to prefill the filter about half way and roll it around a bit to get all of the surfaces in the filter moist. Unfortunately i dont remember why but i read it in C&D or R&T so i do it, couldnt hurt... changing the oil on the stique / tour is not hard once you get used to doing it... K&N oil filters also have a socket type nub on the end of them that you can use to screw on and unscrew the filter... with an extension you can save your hand from potential burns on the exhaust manifold.

heres how i do it.

1. Jack up the car and place jack stands under the control arms or cross member
2. Drain oil from pan (use gloves and hand loosen the nut after you use a socket wrench to loosen it (try to get as much of a side angle on the plug when doing this so you can pull the plug away and not down, into the stream of hot oil)) wait till the pan completely stops dripping before moving on (i usually have a smoke and its done by the time i'm done)
3. Remove old filter slowly with socket wrench, allowing to drip excess oil dry before removing completely.
4. Replace pan plug
5. Open a bottle of oil and lubricate the filter gasket, also pour some oil into the filter until its about 50% full then roll it around allowing the filter to soak up the fresh oil.
6. Install new oil filter hand tight then about 1/4 turn with the socket wrench.
7. Put remaining oil from mobil-1 case (6 qts) into engine.
8. Start engine, check for leaks, let run for about 10 minutes.
9. Drop car and go have some fun!


-Matt "Pain heals, chicks dig scars, and glory lasts forever!" will do/pay just about anything for the following parts: CF sunroof glass replacement OEM CF trunk Non OEM style cf or fiberglass hood not the cf1 design
#442882 09/25/02 06:37 AM
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You partially fill the oil filter because that lessens the time it takes the oil pump to get your newly changed oil to all the parts of your engine (on the first start-up after the oil change).

Mike


1996 SE MTX, Desert Violet (Ford's name for this color blows chunks! I prefer Black Cherry ) Dunlop Sport 5000s, Ray McNairy's THFix, Magnecor wires
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