Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Could my struts be the culprit this whole time?

Well, I just turned the drums and then the rotors before going to SZ. Unfortunately I still have vibration again while braking. Extremely bad from 70+mph. The whole steering wheel shakes, etc.. I'm wondering if this could be what's caused my pulsing/vibration while moving and NOT braking? Seems to be the same type of feel just 100x worse while braking. I've been battling this for about 35K miles. Could it really be the front struts? The coils "look" fine.

Thanks for the feedback. John

jc-aimhigher@webtv.net
jctz1@hotmail.com

weird problem. I'm assuming you've balanced the wheels and wheel wieghts and all that stuff.

The strut mounts could be causing it.. hmm

just some things to check here..idle speculation,

Motor mounts.. could be a problem with the engine slowing down. MTX or ATX? if atx, it could be something with the tranny. Struts could cause it.. doubt it though.. hmm is it regular vibration that directly corresponds to wheel rotation?? If that's the case go back to the rotors, they probably cut them wrong.

Can you tell if it's the engine bouncing back and forth?

Hell check the CV joints too.

out of ideas here without more information


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Dave Andrews
Black&Tan 2000 SVT
davelandrews@home.com

I think you will find that it is the rotors. The only way to really be sure, is to replace them.

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Jim Johnson
98 SVT

I agree!

The rotors fixed 75% of my steering wheel shaking. Other 25% ????? 4 wheel alignment and balancing also.

If it vibrates severly under braking, it's the rotors. Turning rotors makes them more prone to warping - the more massive the brake rotor, the less chance you have of warping. I agree with Jim - buy new aftermarket rotors (Ford rotors suck) and your problem will be gone.

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Barry Wolf
1996 Contour SE MTX Midnight Red, Parchment leather
Brakes: Bendix OEM size discs, Carbon Metallic Pads, Parking Brake TSB kit
Engine: TH fix, New IAC valve, new cat, new water pump, moose fix kit
Tranny: Redline ATF + Ford Friction modifier
Interior: Pioneer CD receiver, Pioneer speakers, Ford RS shift knob
Other: High beam bulbs in low beam position, new trunk vent

Thanks for the responses.

I have/had new rotors on it from the BAT kit. German made. I have tried both sets of rims and tires that I have. OE and the Konigs...still no change. The pulse seems to be more noticeable when the wheels aren't straight on, ie: turning the steering wheel even a tad left or right. My brother drove the car finally and said that he can't see it being the rotors due to the amount of shake it makes. Sometimes it's worse than others. The rotors were turned and the guy said they were in no need of being turned. He only took off 2 and 4 thousandths. So, it's the same shudder I've had while braking with the OE size rotors/calipers and hasn't changed since the upgrade. The slight pulse in the steering wheel is the same as well. No change with alignments, wheel balances, swaps etc...

Thanks for all the input.
John

You didn't say how many miles you've gone. Have you checked your front A arm bushings? While you're at it, I'd check the ball joint and tie rod end. Any weakness at any of these points will adversely affect the other 2.

I have 68K miles. Everything else looks fine. Maybe I should just try and get new rubber/urethane for all the suspension?

John

I changed my rotors to aftermarket x-drilled in the 278MM size and I have a slight vibration when braking to right or left also JC......so rotors isn't the answer to my problems. It seems to only be evident when I brake HARD extremely hard, so maybe the new rotors are off a bit...
this is a reason for having a rear wheel drive SVO
FWD-ers are so freaking picky about sh!t

ahh more info

Here's one I used to see on the Taurus, same problem you describe. Inner CV joints was the culprit, doesn't mean it is your problem. But check them for grease leaks. Cracked boots etc. 68K is about the time the boots go on FWD cars.

The thing that I'm keying off of is you say its just off center in a slight turn. That's the clue, what geometry on the suspension is changed at that point? CV joints, tie rods, hell I remember one that had to do with the inner joints on the rack and pinion. Of course that was a clunking sound that took forever to find. Not a vibration.

New rubber on the suspension couldn't hurt at this point.
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Dave Andrews
Black&Tan 2000 SVT
davelandrews@home.com

[This message has been edited by Daveandrews (edited May 01, 2001).]